Minimum screed depth for UFH
- Thread starter Kevin55
- Start date
Sponsored Links
D
Deleted member 174758
Much less than 50mm and it can become difficult to get a decent fix for stud walls, etc. (based on the fact that brown plugs are 35 to 40mm long)
Last edited by a moderator:
Sponsored Links
I take it if UFH is installed within the screed... have to be careful where any stud walls will need to go as I wouldnt want to damage the pipes.
Would it be advisable therefore to get the stud walls up firstly directly on the slab, then set the UFH pipes and then screed over?
Would it be advisable therefore to get the stud walls up firstly directly on the slab, then set the UFH pipes and then screed over?
D
Deleted member 174758
The UFH is normally clipped down and the screed is laid in on top of that. On larger jobs the UFH is sometimes laid out to avoid the lines of stud walls, hand rails, etc with tracks between rooms going through doorways or pre-defined paths beneath stud walls. On smaller jobs it is just laid down over the whole. Either way you need to know that a 50mm screed really is 50mm thick and to warn any following trades what depth to expect. It isn't much fun when the screeder has put insufficient depth of screed in and your guys have been told the UFH is at 70mm only to find it is at 40mm... Very expensive to sort out, although the "fountains" in the floor that you see when they pressurise the system look "interesting" to say the least (and before you get the wrong idea this has happened to me only twice in the last 20 years, each time the screed was sub-spec)
I've put up stud walls (metal track) then boarded them before a dry screed (70mm, commercial) has been put in quite a few times. The mix used we can normally walk on within 24 to 48 hours. Works well enough for us. With liquid screed it seems to be normal to run the screed in before the stud walls in place as the bottom of the plasterboard would just turn to mush if they were already in. The main thing is that you need to be certain that any soleplate fixings (for walls, etc) do not pierce the UFH - so if the spec calls for 40mm, check every time you drill to ensure that you have left 10 to 15mm of leeway and make sure that any trades coming in to that room know what is under the floor (BTW this is another good reason to use MF over timber stud - MF can be power nailed in with 25mm concrete nails which you know won't go anywhere near your UFH whereas every hole you drill is done by a human being, allegedly)
Last edited by a moderator:
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
