Need some advice, read a lot of threads on here and now just confused. I need to bring a wall out level, can't be done with render, which is in bathroom that I am now turning into a wet room. I was planning on using moisture resistant board and tanking it, I am tanking the whole room anyway, so don't believe I need to use cement board. If anyone could give some help that would be great, thank you in advance.
Moisture resistant board in a wet room
- Thread starter Sean85
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If it's being tanked, standard Pbs would do.
Standard plasterboard?! Ok if that's the case then that's good news to the bank balance!! I'm tiling all the way up the wall to the ceiling, the tiles I'm getting have a weight of 20.5kg per square meter, would this be ok to go straight onto the plasterboard if it is dot and dabbed on to the wall? I'm looking at keeping the distance I come out to a minimum as well so would 9.5mm plasterboard still take the weight or would I have to use 12.5mm?
I would always use 12.5mm boards, if you D'n'D then a secondary mechanical fixing would be required.
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If you want to save space and hang heavy tiles then have it rendered throughout. is 3mm really going to be an issue to you if you use 12mm boards? It would be worth checking with the company that makes the tanking if their product has any weight limits as you'll be bonding your tiles to the tanking membrane, not the substrate. bare plaster board can hold 32kg/sq m if memory serves me correct.
When you say mechanical fixing would masonary screws through the board and adhesive be good enough? I I was to render would a basic sand cement rendering mix with plastering sand be good/strong enough? Sorry for the million questions but I just don't want the tiles coming down on my head when I'm having a shower!!
I would knock off, as you will be reliant on the old decaying plaster as a bond, if not.
You can get nailable plugs that do the job.
http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/plasterboard___accessories/gyproc_fixings/nailable_plugs.aspx
http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/SB07_DriLyner_04.pdf
I am nut sure rendering will allow for heavier tiles to be fixed, as the render will be skimmed (I assume)
Then that will reduce weight allowance:
Wall Substrates/Maximum Weight of Tiling per m²
Gypsum Plaster 20Kg/m²
Gypsum Plasterboard Direct(without a plaster skim) 32Kg/m²
Plywood (WBP) Up to 30Kg/m²
Lightweight Tilebacking Boards 40Kg/m². Depending on the type and thickness of the board.
Glass reinforced Cement Sheets 50kg/m², Depending on the type and thickness of the board.
Gypsum Fibre boards Approximately 35- 40Kg/m²
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I hope you aren't in a hurry because render takes ages to dry - and unless you can get an absolutely flat surface (unlikely for a DIYer) then the tiling job will look a complete mess. Not only that it is bloody freezing in winter. Go with the PB idea for best results.
The tiles I am fixing on the wall only weigh 20.5kg per square metre. There is no plasterboard on any of the walls already it is just plaster skimmed directly onto them, two walls are concrete breeze block and the other two walls are solid concrete. I have spoken to a plasterer and apparently if the plaster is solid then will be fine to render over it and will take the weight. Hopefully that is the case. In no rush to tile the walls but I want to get on with tanking the floor putting the underfloor heating down and tiling the floor so need the walls done to get on with that. By the time I've done that the walls should most definitely be dry! If not I've got a constantly growing list of things to be doing/building whilst I wait! ;o)
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If you render over dodgey plaster then that plaster has to support the weight of your tiles, the adhesive AND the weight of the render.
If the plaster is good - then tile over it. If it's not - then it has to come off. Simple as that.
If the plaster is good - then tile over it. If it's not - then it has to come off. Simple as that.
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