Morco FEB 24E Boiler- Adding Wireless Programmable Room Stat

11 Mar 2007
Reaction score
United Kingdom

My parents recently moved into a static caravan that they are living in for 11 months of the year. They have a Morco FEB-24E boiler which they use for their heating and hot water. The boiler works brilliantly except it is very limited in its controls. It has a mechanical clock timer with jumpers for on/off with a manual override for either completely on or completely off. The caravan is either red hot or freezing. There is no room thermostat fitted and the outside temperature is currently -11C where they are!

I have previously fitted a wireless programmable to our boiler at home but I could look at the wiring for the clock and bought one from the boiler manufacturer. The Morco doesn't have one available from the manufacturer.

I am therefore after an easy to use wireless box of tricks that I can buy and fit myself (or simple instructions for my father).

I have attached a link to the boiler which shows the wiring diagram. I'm sure this is a simple set up and hoping someone can quickly take a peak and advise the way to proceed.

The wiring is page 8!

Thanks in anticipation.

Sponsored Links
from what i can see ....
disconnect the connections from clock on first connector of J4 then disconnect the stat wire from the second connection.
Depending on the rf prog/stat you use connect the T1 wire to the first connection and then connect the call for heat wire T2 from rf reciever to the second.
The honeywell cmt927 has these two connections On your Boiler T1 is the first connection and T2 is the second on J4. on the Rf receiver T1 is A and T2 is B.
you have to link the two lives in the reciever , they dont provide the link.
and presto.
here is image of cmt927 wiring to help make sense.
Thanks a lot for that information and suggestion. I've had a play with a wiring diagram and think its correct. Could you cast your eye over it to make sure i've got it correct.

almost , i would connect the earth neutral and live to the same connections as the boiler main supply directly. this makes sure it powers on and off with the boiler.

follow your a and b orange lines and instead of going down to the stat connector(13) go up and connect to the J4 connector a in first left, b in seond one next to it.

if it doesnt work then link an L in BDR91 to A
Sponsored Links
I've read that the switch should be 0v if I introduced L to it think it would pop the PCB.

I had to scratch my head about the power side of things and understand what you mean about the other connectors and connecting to the J4.

Your help is appreciated!

I'm heading to bed now but will try to tweak the drawing tomorrow and post for a final opinion!

Thanks again

if you just copnnect a and b to 1 and 2 on j4 then it should be 0v

the best way is to remove existing 1 and 2 from j4 and just link them together , if boiler fires up then just do the above.

ive tried to say dont link L to A, making the switch 240v, until you know the voltage going into 1 and 2

I am having the same problem, am i correct in saying the wires that control the switch (link wire) need to go in to A & B, and then do I need an additional 230V to go to N & L, or can the thermostat just work using A & B.

Thanks for your help

Am i correct in saying the wires that control the switch (link wire) need to go in to A & B, and then do I need an additional 230V to go to N & L, or can the thermostat just work using A & B.
If you are talking about a Honeywell wireless thermostat, you need a permanent 240Vac supply to L and N as well as the control wires to A and B.

The 240Vac powers the receiver electronics in the relay box.

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

Sponsored Links