motor bearings

[evdamadiynot]

A bit of an update
Got a bit of dismantling done but not too far
Enough to push out some gummy old brown grease and replace it with new.
It made a slight difference.
I did notice however there is a small rusty metal on/ off toggle switch on the capacitor housing that was very graunchy-seems to have not been used much.
Or too much.
Ive bypassed it and put the supply through a modern panel mounted plastic isolator.
The motor still runs a bit hotter than I would like but it's faster and quieter so Ill see how it goes.

 

[conny]

Now push out some more gammy old grease, run for a while and then push some more out. Each time putting some fresh grease in.
What grease are you using? Blue lithium grease seems to be the trend these days I think. (For general purpose anyway. Hi temp situations call for a special blend).

Just had a thought. Does it have a centrifugal switch fitted inside at the terminal box end? It it does, (you can sometimes see through the vents a small disc that will move if you gently push it with a thin screwdriver), it may not be cutting out the start winding, in which case it will probably burn out before too much more running.
The best solution is to strip it down and check for bearing wear though. As I said in my previous post, mark up each end with pop marks or felt tip lines. Don't make the marks the same on each end. On the shaft end make the lines in the same direction as the shaft. Two short straight lined across the joint between the end plate and the motor body will do. Put them on the top so they are easily seen. At the other end use 3 straight lines and put them across the joint at the 9.00 o'clock position. This way you will know which end goes where and at what position they should go back at. Once you have marked up, take the nuts off the through bolts and remove the bolts. Gently tap the shaft with a heavy MALLET! Do NOT use a hammer! You only need to make it move enough to brak the seal between one of the end plates and the body of the motor. Be careful as there may be an internal fan at one end. If your supply cable goes into the non-drive end then the fan will usually be inside at the shaft end. You don't want the fan to strike the windings. Once apart you will have easy access to both bearings.