motor bearings

[evdamadiynot]

https://ibb.co/K5XNn4t

Any of you fellow old timers know if/how I can replenish the lube on this bearing.

It's a mid 70s Brook Compton
It was running ludicrously hot despite its hosts gearbox being full of oil
The back end bearing has a grease cup which had dried up.
I've gently replenished it and it has made a noticeable difference and it doesn't trip the thermal reset button any more but it's still hot to the touch after about 15 mins on a bitterly cold day.
I'm guessing the front is also dry.
Do I try to prise out the pressed metal cap or remove the 4 long bolts and try to take off the whole cast end-casing?
Btw the hexagon isn't a hexagon and part of the casting..

 

[Mottie]

The cap looks like it will prise out like the grease caps used to on the front hub/taper roller bearings on old RWD cars. If you could get the end plate off I bet that would have a bearing that could be tapped out and replaced.

 

[evdamadiynot]

Thanks mottie
I'll try a sharpened screwdriver in the recesses first

 

[Burnerman]

If you have the time, then split the motor casing......it’ll make access to the bearing much easier for a clean out or replacement.
There may be a felt seal behind that dust cap.
John

 

[ericmark]

I have found if getting hot it's too late the cage has broken and the balls are rubbing against each other, only option is new bearings.

 

[crystal ball]

I get that after running for the bus

 

[Burnerman]

These motors can give quite a 'kick' when starting.
I've seen them in a cradle where a rubber doughnut was moulded around the cast octagon and held in a clamp, giving a cush mounting and therefore a smoother start to a belt drive or whatever.
John

 

[fluorescence]

If the bearings are getting hot no amount of re-greasing will fix it. Replace the bearing, one should only be a few quid from the interwebs.

 

[evdamadiynot]

Thanks chaps
It's the main body that's getting hot too

 

[Burnerman]

It could be a good move to split the motor casings, and blow out the windings with compressed air if possible.
If you wish to replace the bearings, heat up the area with a hot air gun.....the bearings will punch out without any problems.
John

 

[conny]

If you are going to pop the end shield off make sure you mark it with a few corresponding pop marks or felt tip lines.
The reason is the central bearing housing may be ever so slightly out of centre, and putting the shield back in a different position can cause the shaft to run out of true.
This can increase bearing wear, cause the rotor to rub on the stator core, (unlikely but I have known it to happen), and in extreme cases cause gear box wear.
Whenever you take a motor apart always mark corresponding parts to ensure they go back as originally fitted.

 

[winston1]

Btw the hexagon isn't a hexagon and part of the casting..

Octogon

 

[Burnerman]

If you are going to pop the end shield off make sure you mark it with a few corresponding pop marks or felt tip lines.
The reason is the central bearing housing may be ever so slightly out of centre, and putting the shield back in a different position can cause the shaft to run out of true.
This can increase bearing wear, cause the rotor to rub on the stator core, (unlikely but I have known it to happen), and in extreme cases cause gear box wear.
Whenever you take a motor apart always mark corresponding parts to ensure they go back as originally fitted.

.......and check the thing spins nice and freely at each step - a good whack with a wooden mallet is great for aligning things!
John

 

[EFLImpudence]

Octogon

Nonagon.

 

[winston1]

Nonagon.

Apologies.