motorised valve

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OK so you've replaced the actuator head, that should rule out the motor and micro switches.
Was the valve spindle free and easy to move before you replaced the head.
If yes, then it would suggest there was no power on the 'grey' wire when the valve reached mid point.
Mid point is where the power on the white is cut off from the motor and replaced with power on the 'grey'. So question is does the 'grey' become live.
There are two situations for the 'grey' to become live.
With CH and HW on, when HW becomes satisfied the cylinder stat switches power from the satisfied terminal of stat to the grey,so the valve can move on.
Of course if HW is not switched on, the cylinder stat does nothing, so another method is adopted. A wire is run from the programmers HW OFF terminal to join the grey.
It's fairly clear you have both HW and CH when both have been selected, but HW will soon be satisfied and valve should move on but without power on grey valve will be held at mid point.
Seems like wiring fault and raises the question did it ever work properly.
 
I think tryitandsee is referring to a room stat not the boiler stat.
If you get both HW and CH even though it may only be for short while it does prove the room stat is OK as needs that to move valve from HW position to mid point.
 
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hi again, yes the spindle is ok per Jackthom, I only have a boiler stat with valves on rads

I have lived in the house from new about 16 years and the system has always worked fine apartf from minor defects

I am no spark but I have carefully put the 5 wires from actuator to the correct terminal blocks

would a heating eng sus it out or best to get a spark if I cant manage myself through the helpful site thanks again
 
How do you have a three way valve without a room stat?
I don't see the point of having the valve if it's not controlled.
 
Hi, I'd double check the wiring of the White and Orange valve leads.

For Heating Only, they are connected together by the microswitch in the valve head to fire the boiler and run the pump. But only if the spindle is reasonably free and the valve can motor right across.

A £10 multimeter from Amazon would be your best friend for this sort of work. ;)


Edited to correct error.
 
Hi, I'd double check the wiring of the Grey and Orange valve leads.

For Heating Only, they are connected together by the microswitch in the valve head to fire the boiler and run the pump. But only if the spindle is reasonably free and the valve can motor right across.

A £10 multimeter from Amazon would be your best friend for this sort of work. ;)

Hi Tom! I think you'll find it's the white that connects to the orange to fire the boiler.
The purpose of the grey is to power the motor from mid position onwards
 
Hi, I'd double check the wiring of the Grey and Orange valve leads.

For Heating Only, they are connected together by the microswitch in the valve head to fire the boiler and run the pump. But only if the spindle is reasonably free and the valve can motor right across.

A £10 multimeter from Amazon would be your best friend for this sort of work. ;)

Hi Tom! I think you'll find it's the white that connects to the orange to fire the boiler.
The purpose of the grey is to power the motor from mid position onwards

Yes, my apologies to poshman for any confusion caused. :oops:
 
update...

heating eng has got the heating back on but it will only work if both the HW & CH switches are on via the programmer, I use emersion for hot water so he has turned off valve at the bottom of the tank

not an ideal way but if it gets me through winter thats ok, he thinks the fault lies with the programmer wiring, maybe best idea to re wire with new programmer. in the meantime I might as well return the actuator and get my £70 back !
 

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