This is because most of them are under sea level
They have floating house and village
Mould issues
- Thread starter DonDonson
- Start date
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The initial problem wasn't simply one of condensation, it was mould growth in many areas of the flat. It not identified and treated correctly, this can have serious consequences for the tenant's health.
I doubt that your simplified view of the world will be of much more help. There are people who spend thousands of pounds on home "improvements" which in the long term will create damp issues, and the problem is again one of lacking expertise. Most tradesmen have a rather superficial (if any!) understanding of what they're doing to a property, because the vocational training system isn't properly organised and tradesmen aren't properly regulated.
It's nice that you can pass on all this valuable advice from other co-posters, but you can only talk about success if she really manages to get rid of the mould.
The first thing I'd do is to get a dehumidifier.....if the occupants are drying clothes or bathing / cooking without extraction you aint going to get anywhere.
If the problem is as bad as you say, there's got to be some self help here.
John
+1 dehumidifier.
It's the solution/variable that is:
-Non destructive.
-Relatively cheap
-Simple- they carry on as they are (with the D'fier) and watch effects.
If D'fier fills up regularly, and the 'symptoms' dwindle, you can then look at which behavioural part can be changed to make an impact; which input can they reduce or stop i.e, stop drying clothes indoors, which output can they instal- extractor fans, or again continuous use of D'fier.
Btw. I recommend a silicone absorbtion unit- that is without condenser. They are not so noisy and more efficient at lower temperatures.
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The extremely wet winter of 2013/14 has tested the damp resistance of even the driest UK properties.
Short of full air conditioning, increasing air movement is the only way that will solve domestic condensation problems on walls behind furniture etc., in corners at the bottom and top of walls, on and around windows, and the cheapest way is to use the fans that you would use in summer to move air about when it is too hot.
Condensation occurs on surfaces that are colder than other surfaces in the same room.
If all surfaces are as warm as the air within the room, condensation can not occur.
Reciprocating or oscillating fans will move air to contact large areas of surfaces in a room, warming the surfaces to ambient temperature. Because surfaces are being warmed that were not when the air was still, the heating system will work a little harder, especially when previously damp surfaces are still evaporating, and thus chilling.
Without air movement, dehumidifiers, trickle ventilation, or even turning up the thermostat for room heating. will have limited effectiveness in controlling condensation.
But this is putting the cart before the horse, since there are mould spores on the damp surfaces (in fact everywhere where the air can carry them.)
Actively growing mould patches need to be treated first. Then a thorough cleaning of dusty surfaces, using damp cloths and dilute bleach, and a vacuum cleaning of all carpets, floors
The cheapest, rapid, and most effective treatment of black mould (Aspergillus) and pink mould (Serratia) is bleach.
Neat thick bleach is most effective and will not harm walls painted with emulsion or gloss painted woodwork. Apply liberally with a nylon brush and do not scrub the area. Allow to dry. The mould will vanish in a few seconds.
Bleach is an irritant to mucous membranes so ensure ventilation while treatment is in progress and for a time afterwards.
Polyester carpets should be unaffected, but wool, untreated wood surfaces, and other natural materials may be affected by the bleach treatment. Test a small area first. A less harsh treatment is a quaternary ammonium based disinfectant, such as Dettol antibacterial kitchen surface cleaner, but this will not remove the black stain.
The dampness may have already damaged the painted surface or wallcoverings. Bleach will remove most staining, except where the mould has penetrated deep into silicone sealants, and the best remedy here, is to cut out the old seal and redo with a fresh mould-resistant sealant.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKOuiOKhULQ
Or else you can do this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pzd0bz828nk
This guy has a more reasonable response:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oj99RNY55Es
Short of full air conditioning, increasing air movement is the only way that will solve domestic condensation problems on walls behind furniture etc., in corners at the bottom and top of walls, on and around windows, and the cheapest way is to use the fans that you would use in summer to move air about when it is too hot.
Condensation occurs on surfaces that are colder than other surfaces in the same room.
If all surfaces are as warm as the air within the room, condensation can not occur.
Reciprocating or oscillating fans will move air to contact large areas of surfaces in a room, warming the surfaces to ambient temperature. Because surfaces are being warmed that were not when the air was still, the heating system will work a little harder, especially when previously damp surfaces are still evaporating, and thus chilling.
Without air movement, dehumidifiers, trickle ventilation, or even turning up the thermostat for room heating. will have limited effectiveness in controlling condensation.
But this is putting the cart before the horse, since there are mould spores on the damp surfaces (in fact everywhere where the air can carry them.)
Actively growing mould patches need to be treated first. Then a thorough cleaning of dusty surfaces, using damp cloths and dilute bleach, and a vacuum cleaning of all carpets, floors
The cheapest, rapid, and most effective treatment of black mould (Aspergillus) and pink mould (Serratia) is bleach.
Neat thick bleach is most effective and will not harm walls painted with emulsion or gloss painted woodwork. Apply liberally with a nylon brush and do not scrub the area. Allow to dry. The mould will vanish in a few seconds.
Bleach is an irritant to mucous membranes so ensure ventilation while treatment is in progress and for a time afterwards.
Polyester carpets should be unaffected, but wool, untreated wood surfaces, and other natural materials may be affected by the bleach treatment. Test a small area first. A less harsh treatment is a quaternary ammonium based disinfectant, such as Dettol antibacterial kitchen surface cleaner, but this will not remove the black stain.
The dampness may have already damaged the painted surface or wallcoverings. Bleach will remove most staining, except where the mould has penetrated deep into silicone sealants, and the best remedy here, is to cut out the old seal and redo with a fresh mould-resistant sealant.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKOuiOKhULQ
Or else you can do this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pzd0bz828nk
This guy has a more reasonable response:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oj99RNY55Es
Mould growth is caused by condensation, especially in the situation as described.
You either haven't got a clue, or are one of these "specialists" peddling the myth that this is at all a complicated black art.
Condensation is caused by cold surfaces relative to the humidity, even school kids could grasp this very basic subject if it was taught in school.
:facepalm:
Condensation forms on cold surfaces, well insulated homes don't have cold surfaces.
(If any condensation occurs in modern properties, it is because they are not actually that well insulated, or have been constructed by the typical sloppy UK builder leaving gaps in the insulation).
JohnD gives this advice elsewhere - it will inform you that you have condensation
//www.diynot.com/wiki/Building:Condensation-in-Houses
Many of the postings here are argumentative, and thus not helpful.
The original question (entitled "Mould issues") was:
Yes, it's condensation on cold walls, with mould growing. Mould can be removed easily, in minutes:
The lack of movement of air behind furniture can only be solved by moving air behind the furniture!
Move the furniture slightly away from the wall and use a fan to move the air - simples! - Once the wall warms to the same temperature as the rest of the air in the room - condensation can not occur.
Trickle vent - probably will create colder area near window - and trickle - says it all - will not create a decent change of air in the room.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/Building:Condensation-in-Houses
Many of the postings here are argumentative, and thus not helpful.
The original question (entitled "Mould issues") was:
Yes, it's condensation on cold walls, with mould growing. Mould can be removed easily, in minutes:
The lack of movement of air behind furniture can only be solved by moving air behind the furniture!
Move the furniture slightly away from the wall and use a fan to move the air - simples! - Once the wall warms to the same temperature as the rest of the air in the room - condensation can not occur.
Trickle vent - probably will create colder area near window - and trickle - says it all - will not create a decent change of air in the room.
Don't use bleach on porous surfaces, it won't penetrate, and could make the mould worse in the long run.
You need to use distilled vinegar
You need to use distilled vinegar
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