Mounting a Consumer unit

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Just a quick one.

I read that your supposed to mount a consumer unit on a board, which I understand.

If your putting a CU in a garage, are you allowed to attach the CU directly to the wall???
 
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Just realised thats a stupid question.

Sorry!!!!!!!
 
Supposed to mount it on a board? Old sparks love too.

It is far more common to fix the CU directly to the wall, house, garage or workplace.
 
Supposed to mount it on a board? Old sparks love too.

It is far more common to fix the CU directly to the wall, house, garage or workplace.

Oh.

I assumed, wrongly it seems, that you board mounted it to stop damp and moisture from the brickwork getting in to it.

I stand corrected.

Thank you.
 
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Old CUs were often open backed, so (as well as spacing it off a possibly damp wall) you could complete the enclosure with a board.

As an oldie:
you can use a piece of laminated chipboard (as used for kitchens) if you like; the surface will not support a flame and is very easy to wipe clean. You can space the board off the wall using battens or plastic screw-tops off Coke bottles :eek: if you like and lead the cables in from behind, that way it looks neat and you need no cut-outs in the enclosure. you can also mount your first socket on the board if you like, or have one on a dedicated radial to use as a working supply while you might have the others off.

It also gives you an flat, even surface if the wall is a bit rough which is comon in old buildings or garages.
 
It also allows for rear cable entry, which from the finger test point of view is still the best point of cable entry for CU's.
And keeps the side and top compliant with IPX4 :LOL:

In addition trunking and boxing in works better (my view) with stilted CU's.

I tend to use 2.5" screws with 8-10 penny washers between wall and CU base.
 
I'm a big fan of backer boards for CU's, mainly for old and/or damp properties.

Generally use spare infill panels care of my kitchen fitter mate with 8-12mm 'washers' made from old 1/2" alkathene water pipe :)
 
It also allows for rear cable entry, which from the finger test point of view is still the best point of cable entry for CU's.
And keeps the side and top compliant with IPX4 :LOL:
It's IP4X and is applicable to top surfaces, not the sides which is IP2X.
 
Damp wall lminated chipboard = Short life.

Damp will penetrate! You will end up with a mush sandwhich.
 
plastic screw-tops off Coke bottles
8-12mm 'washers' made from old 1/2" alkathene water pipe
Jees, this from highly trained, professional, multi-millionaire electricians :D

Use rubber door stops, they come pre-drilled, and leave a good space for the wiring behind:cool:

images
 
Rubber stops sounds good, but a get a FOC box of 5000 washers of a steel fixer whenever I need them.
 

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