Move a socket.

  • Thread starter harrisonline
  • Start date
H

harrisonline

I wonder if someone has a solution for my problem?

I want to move a socket in my kitchen. I know its easy enough to spur off and put in an extra socket where you want it. My problem is that I don't want the original socket I just want to move it to a new location!

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
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1) This is notifiable, so you may or may not want to DIY, depending on your attitude to complying with the law and seeking to avoid problems when selling in the future.

2) Unless you replace the cables, you can't use any form of junction box to join them unless it remains accessible.

3) If you remove an accessory but leave cables in place then you may end up contravening the rules for concealed cables if the accessory was creating a cable zone.

4) If the socket circuit doesn't already have RCD protection then you should add it to the new socket and any new concealed cabling.

5) When you've done you should verify that all is well with the modified circuit (continuity, insulation resistance, fault loop impedance, polarity) before putting it into service.
 
Thanks,

So basically I will still have some sort of blank plate on the wall to provide access to the cables.

What do the regulations say about having switches/sockets above a gas hob?

They are above a gas hob at the moment and I am installing a new kitchen. I want to keep the hob in the same place but would prefer not to have switches over my hob. The switches are for the oven and hood. There is also a double socket.

Thanks.
 
What do the regulations say about having switches/sockets above a gas hob?
They say don't.


I am installing a new kitchen.
So it could be hard in the future to deny when the work was done.

And now is the ideal time to do the electrics properly - sockets & switches where you want them, a dedicated circuit for high load appliances etc.

Don't fiddle about moving sockets, joining cables, leaving blanking plates visible - get an electrician to re-do the whole lot before you plaster/tile.
 
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Funnily enough that's what i was just discussing with my wife before I read your reply.

Thanks.
 
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The postion of switches above hobs is mentioned in Electricians Guide to the Building Regs, my copy at work. From memory it is 300mm from the edge of the cooker horizontally and at a minimum height of 150mm above worktop. They must not be directly postioned above a hob. Will stand by to be corrected if figures are out.
 
Interesting, I had always assumed the sockets in my kitchen didn't comply. The kitchen was redone by the previous owners, and I think they just left sockets where they were, but moved where the (electric) cooker and hob were, so it now ends up with a socket immediately to the side of it, and they've put the cooker switch a bit to the right (but only about 100mm)...

Once I've done all the rooms that really do need doing, I'm planning on redoing at least the tiling in the kitchen, so will probably move them at that stage (with Part P notification of course...)
 
Please notice the word GUIDE in the title of the book "Electricians Guide to the Building Regs".

The 300mm guidance refers to guide distances from a sink. There's no rules re socket heights in kitchens.

Generally, any fitting must be suitable for the environment so a socket may not be suitable right next to a cooker/hob where it will get hot/steamy/greasy. Standard fittings aren't made for that.
 
IIRC BS 6172 defines exclusion zones for gas hobs, in which there should be nothing combustible.

Even metal socket fronts have plastic inserts, and then there's also the situation of actually having a plug inserted...
 

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