Moving a hot Water cylinder

[JeffG]

Hi JohnD,

Thanks again. Your points are noted and appreciated.

Having looked in the floor and access panels last night I notice that there are very few 'elbows'. All turns are almost all done with pipe benders, giving a soft long radius to the bends. Even under the bath and up to the taps there are no 'elbows'. Maybe that's why we get super fast flow at the basin/bath. Then again maybe the plumber just used up all his 'elbows'.

Will think a lot about the Triton then and maybe wait until the work is complete to experience the pressure/flow in real-time - er instead of theory.

 

[JohnD]

proper bends suggests a good job was done.

 

[gas4you]

Are you sure the 3 who mentioned pumps were not refering to a shower pump only?

 

[JeffG]

Hi gas4you,

No-one mentioend shower pumps.

The pump required goes in the pipe to feed hot water back upstairs to get a reasonable flow pressure to fill a bath.

It works by flow sensing I believe and must therefore be electrically connected and kicks in when water starts to (or wants to) flow.

 

[JohnD]

someone talking nonsense to you. sorry.

Provided always that you keep the cold water tank in the loft (above the bathroom) the cylinder can be as low as you want.

If you had one of those cylinders with a miniature cold tank joined onto the top, that would need a pump, as it would not have the pressure of a loft tank.

 

[gas4you]

Where does the cold supply for the bath come from, or indeed the whole bathroom?

If it is also off the cold tank in the loft then this 'home booster' pump will unbalance the supply.

 

[JeffG]

Hi gas4you,

The cold supply for the bathroom (including the toilet) comes from the huge black tank in the loft and the hot supply from the copper cylinder.

 

[gas4you]

Thats good then. This means you have a balanced supply to the bathroom, so leave as is and don't worry about a booster pump.