Moving Storage Heater

[ukblsmn]

Hi, I want to move one of my storage heaters approx 2.5m from its current location, clearly the current cable is not going to be long enough. I understand that the cable from the switch to the heater must be heat resistant and I want to avoid rewiring the heater and running the heat resistant cable for such a distance. Would I simply be able to replace the existing switch with a junction box, run additonal 16A twin and earth cable to the point that i will be re-siting the switch and then reconnect the heater from there?
The sight of the cable is not a concern as it will be blocked by furniture.
Thanks in advance

 

[sparkwright]

You'll have to check the size of the original mains wiring, and the size of the fuse or mcb at the board which protects it.

Not sure what you define '16A' cable, but 2.5 mm2 twin and earth cable would typically be used.

 

[Iggifer]

if the sight of the cable is not an issue then reflex the heater with some longer heat flex and do it the 'proper way'

your solution just screams 'bodge' and I'm assuming you mean a JB in place of the current FCU then just running the T+E to the FCU presumably in a surface box? No that would not be acceptable

 

[sparkwright]

if the sight of the cable is not an issue then reflex the heater with some longer heat flex and do it the 'proper way'

your solution just screams 'bodge' and I'm assuming you mean a JB in place of the current FCU then just running the T+E to the FCU presumably in a surface box? No that would not be acceptable

I'm not so sure keeping the switch where it is and running a heat proof flex in excess of 2.5 metres is the ideal solution.

If the op was to resite the switch and run 2.5 mm2 twin and earth from here back to the old switch position, and join with connector blocks and fit single blank plate over box - then I think this would be acceptable.

If new wiring is to be surface, clip to top of skirting board, or better still use plastic mini trunking.

 

[Iggifer]

Yea that would be ok, the way he described it just sounded like it would be a JB in the place of the FCU, no blank, then T+E trailing on the floor to an FCU in a patress.

At least, that's how it seemed to me, I may be wrong

 

[ukblsmn]

Ok but I'm gonna scream "noob" here but FCU?
The 2.5mm cable I was going to run would be in plastic conduit fixed above the skirting. I assumed a junction box would suffice with a blanking plate.

 

[sparkwright]

By junction box, I assume you mean the existing back box for the old switch, which a blank plate would fit over nicely.

By FCU he means a switched fused spur unit (a switch with fuse). With storage heaters it's more likely you don't have this, you probably a just a switch (2o amp double pole switch). Best use the old one, or a new equivalent.

 

[ukblsmn]

By junction box, I assume you mean the existing back box for the old switch, which a blank plate would fit over nicely.

By FCU he means a switched fused spur unit (a switch with fuse). With storage heaters it's more likely you don't have this, you probably a just a switch (2o amp double pole switch). Best use the old one, or a new equivalent.

Thats exactly what I meant, there is not currently a fused spur switch on this heater and I was planning on re-using the old switch with a new back box.

 

[flameport]

I want to avoid rewiring the heater and running the heat resistant cable for such a distance.

Why?

Replacing the flex with a longer piece is by far the easiest solution, and no need to get a junction box or new switch etc. either.

 

[ukblsmn]

I want to avoid rewiring the heater and running the heat resistant cable for such a distance.

Why?

Replacing the flex with a longer piece is by far the easiest solution, and no need to get a junction box or new switch etc. either.

Mainly because I dont know what I'm going to find when I do manage to work my way into what is possably heaviest heater I have ever set my eyes on, not exactly easy to move, never mind man-mandle into a position that I can access the wiring. I will however take a look before I choose my final resolution.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

I'd suggest opening the heater and (carefully) removing the bricks inside before shifting the heater. Will probably end up being quicker and less chance of injuring yourself.

 

[flameport]

Mainly because I dont know what I'm going to find when I do manage to work my way into what is possably heaviest heater I have ever set my eyes on, not exactly easy to move, never mind man-mandle into a position that I can access the wiring. I will however take a look before I choose my final resolution.

Storage heaters should NEVER be moved with the bricks inside.
If you attempt this, the heater is very likely to be damaged internally.
If it falls on your foot or leg, then bones will be broken in the most severe and painful way possible.

Inside you will find a load of bricks, some heating elements and a few other small components. Nothing in there which is complex or difficult to understand.
If in doubt, get the installation manual, most can be downloaded.

 

[londonboy]

Take the bricks out first, I've tried moving them loaded before and it bends the legs off.

 

[333rocky333]

there is not currently a fused spur switch on this heater and I was planning on re-using the old switch with a new back box.

Storage heaters if wired correctly normally use a 20 amp switch wired from its own mcb/fuse.

It is rare to find one connected to a FCU/spur unit

 

[333rocky333]

Be aware that OLDER units may contain asbestos