this ones slightly baffling me.......other than its still air circulating in system and its air locking intermitantly.what is worrying tho is why theres know pump over run wired into the boiler,its a big 80e which req.s it as per manufacturers.if its -over heating after 18 odd minutes the scenario which could happen is room stat satisfys,turns pump off and the boiler cant bring pump to circulate excess heat in h-echanger,thus o-heating.as its one u really need to be there i would get the plumber back personally
My Potterton Profile 80e often doesn't start up
- Thread starter NZH
- Start date
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combispecialist, I had already decided earlier during this afternoon that I would send this thread to the plumber for his perspective on things; I think your last post is the one where (at least for now) we draw this item to a close. I'll send him the link to the forum and posts right now, so that he can read them and contact me; just in case there's anyhing that I've missed or misunderstood in my layman's terms.
I really appreciate the time that you have taken with me, respoding to my posts. I'm really pleased tohave found this forum today.
Very many thanks for your guidance - Neil
PS you can now return to watching Wild at Heart, quickly folowed by Dancing On Ice. Or perhaps not........
Monday Morning
Even more curiouser.
The hall stat was turned down to 17 degrees when we went to bed, the heating came on during the night and at about 0615 the boiler fired up to heat the hot water.
Nothing has been done to the system since I started this thread yesterday..............
As a further experiment today, I've set the Honeywell timer control to Auto for both CH and HW, so it will turn off after we have gone to work this morning and is set to turn on again at 1540 this afternoon.
We'll see how the boiler behaves when it has to start up from cold with a cold house; I'll leave the hall stat at 17 degrees for this experiment.
Even more curiouser.
The hall stat was turned down to 17 degrees when we went to bed, the heating came on during the night and at about 0615 the boiler fired up to heat the hot water.
Nothing has been done to the system since I started this thread yesterday..............
As a further experiment today, I've set the Honeywell timer control to Auto for both CH and HW, so it will turn off after we have gone to work this morning and is set to turn on again at 1540 this afternoon.
We'll see how the boiler behaves when it has to start up from cold with a cold house; I'll leave the hall stat at 17 degrees for this experiment.
Tuesday Morning Update
The boiler fired up on its own on Monday afternoon with hall stat set at 17 degrees, we turned the hall stat up to 20 at around 6pm and the boiler delivered CH and HW throughout the evening.
We left it on auto overnight and at around 0615 Tuesday morning it fired up and again delivered HW and CH.
When the boiler is about to turn off and "rest", I hear water inside it, difficult to describe the sound, a bit like water trickling down, but not loud gurgles or great big air bubbles forcing their way to the surface of a bottle......
Any further comments will be gratefully received.
Thanks - Neil
The boiler fired up on its own on Monday afternoon with hall stat set at 17 degrees, we turned the hall stat up to 20 at around 6pm and the boiler delivered CH and HW throughout the evening.
We left it on auto overnight and at around 0615 Tuesday morning it fired up and again delivered HW and CH.
When the boiler is about to turn off and "rest", I hear water inside it, difficult to describe the sound, a bit like water trickling down, but not loud gurgles or great big air bubbles forcing their way to the surface of a bottle......
Any further comments will be gratefully received.
Thanks - Neil
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Hi Neil
I'm no boiler expert but my recent experiences with a Profile 50e may be relevant....
My boiler kept tripping out (eventually it was cutting/re-lighting almost continuously) and the radiators were only getting warm, regardless of how high the boiler stat was set. However the boiler casing was becoming extremely hot, to the point that you couldn't touch it (you mentioned this was happening to yours?). It turned out the heat exchanger was blocked and so no heat / combustion gases were being releaased. The boiler thought it was overheating, and thus cut out.
This may be nothing like what is happening to yours!! However may be worth checking......
I'm no boiler expert but my recent experiences with a Profile 50e may be relevant....
My boiler kept tripping out (eventually it was cutting/re-lighting almost continuously) and the radiators were only getting warm, regardless of how high the boiler stat was set. However the boiler casing was becoming extremely hot, to the point that you couldn't touch it (you mentioned this was happening to yours?). It turned out the heat exchanger was blocked and so no heat / combustion gases were being releaased. The boiler thought it was overheating, and thus cut out.
This may be nothing like what is happening to yours!! However may be worth checking......
It's now Tuesday evening 7pm - boiler is still runnng fine.
In the meantime, I've had a reply from my engineer who suggested that I post his comments about my problems and your repsonses to my posts.
If anyone has something else to add, I think he'd appreciate any comments:
"A faulty overheat stat is possible, but something worth noting is that the boiler did sound like it was actually overheating anyway (a 'kettling' sound)...so maybe the overheat stat is just doing it's job?!
When I cut the 'combined feed and vent pipe' (the feed and expansion from the header tank) to cap it off before the flush, I did notice that the pipe had a build up of rusty scale...similar to cholesterol in arteries...and although the part I cut wasn't anywhere near completely blocked, other parts of the piping could be worse.
If you have this 'rusty scale' throughout your heat exchanger and primary flow and returns it could well be responsible for the overheating...especially if it is in the heat exchanger. Or indeed it could be seriously restricting a specific part of the primaries or feed and vent, which again would cause the overheating.
As you cannot see into the pipework all I can suggest is that I drain down the system and cut into it at various points to check for blockages, I would start with the most obvious places such as the feed and vent, or places where i can get easy access anyway such as compression fittings. From this I can eliminate things until I find the problem."
In the meantime, I've had a reply from my engineer who suggested that I post his comments about my problems and your repsonses to my posts.
If anyone has something else to add, I think he'd appreciate any comments:
"A faulty overheat stat is possible, but something worth noting is that the boiler did sound like it was actually overheating anyway (a 'kettling' sound)...so maybe the overheat stat is just doing it's job?!
When I cut the 'combined feed and vent pipe' (the feed and expansion from the header tank) to cap it off before the flush, I did notice that the pipe had a build up of rusty scale...similar to cholesterol in arteries...and although the part I cut wasn't anywhere near completely blocked, other parts of the piping could be worse.
If you have this 'rusty scale' throughout your heat exchanger and primary flow and returns it could well be responsible for the overheating...especially if it is in the heat exchanger. Or indeed it could be seriously restricting a specific part of the primaries or feed and vent, which again would cause the overheating.
As you cannot see into the pipework all I can suggest is that I drain down the system and cut into it at various points to check for blockages, I would start with the most obvious places such as the feed and vent, or places where i can get easy access anyway such as compression fittings. From this I can eliminate things until I find the problem."
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