need help on how to board my loft

[Wallbanger80]

Hi everyone,
This is my first post on the forum but I have been following it for a while now.
I've just bought a house and I want to add a bit more insulation and board the loft for a bit more storage space. The problem is I have steel beams across the timber joists which also support the roof. From the joists to the top of the steels measure 160mm and the centers of the steels are 905mm.
My loft hatch opening is 600mm x 600mm so the widest board I can get up there is about 800/830mm if that helps at all.

I'm a little stuck for ideas and I can't afford the loft stilt kits as well as the boards and insulation. Please help!

Thanks in advance

Untitled

• Wallbanger80
• 15 Oct 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Wallbanger80
• 15 Oct 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Wallbanger80
• 15 Oct 2014
• 1

 

[regsmyth]

Wouldn't it be best to lay your boards on top of the steel trusses which leaves you a good space underneath for your extra insulation.
The tricky bit is how you join the boards on the thin edge of the truss.

 

[JohnD]

I'd look at putting wooden counterbattens across or between the steels. Put the insulation between them, and the boards on top. Screw the boards tightly to the timbers, which will improve rigidity and spread the load a bit . Space the battens at 600mm or less and find a way to fix or clamp them to the steel. Or run them on top of the timber joists and screw them (don't skew-nail as the vibration of hammering may crack the plaster).

The gaps between your steelwork, and their narrowness, would make me uneasy about putting chipboard loft panels on them.

If you use plastic foam slabs, it insulates about twice as well as the same thickness of wool. If you can find it at the same thickness as the depth of your battens, it will give some extra support to the boards where it crosses the steel or joists (you must not walk on it unboarded, or you will fall through)

If you are reasonably strong you can carry up flooring chip at 2400 x 600 which is cheaper than loft panels and, having much fewer joints, is also more rigid. I prefer ply if you can get it at a good price.

 

[regsmyth]

Or you could fit single joists between and parallel to the trusses, set at the same height as the truss. Then your boards could fix to the new joist, and be supported by the truss at mid point.

 

[Wallbanger80]

Thank you for your reply regsmyth and johnD,
I like the idea of laying new joists between the steels, I think I would need 6x2 timbers but it seems they're never that actual size. What would be the best method of fixing to the original joists - one screw either side at an angle into both joists? Could I use those plastic door packers to level it up with the steels?
I have looked into the t & g boards you mentioned johnD, they would be more suitable than specific loft boards, gonna be fun getting those up. (My wife is only little)

 

[JohnD]

yes, angled screw will do it. Drill pilot holes to make it easier. The screw is only to stop it moving sideways or falling over, it won't go up or down. Look up "skew nailing" for the idea.

I have used decking timbers for something similar, but I think they are only 5". As they are laid across the existing joists, the span between supports is very short, so they don't need to be very wide. I suppose you could put 2x2" timbers across them for the extra height, screwed firmly down.

You can get 7" nominal joists.

(My wife is only little)

You may need a whip.