Nest with 3 port valve system

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The white wire is what you need to control not the orange, basically live and neutral to the heat link, connect live and 2 together then white from 3 port to 1 on the heat link

Thanks, that's very helpful. The current system is pretty messily wired, so I am not sure that the colours will be the same, but I expect I could trace them through. What I am stuck with though is where that white wire from the valve would arrive downstairs in the house so that I can attach to it, because as I said above, it's not obvious. I realise you can't predict the layout of the wiring etc. with any certainty, but typically do those wires come out near the programmer, or the boiler?
 
The wiring is fairly simple, if you've not got the hang of it at this stage then best to refer to a local trade to fix, this is advice here not a step by step instruction manual. Hope you problem gets solved
 
Erm attached to the 3 port which will be wired into a box of some sort.
 
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A lot of heating wiring is jammed into patress boxes with multiple colour wiring, sometimes divided in different areas.
 
the instructions for connecting nest up via zone valves are near the end of the booklet, unfortunately you have read the wrong wiring diagram and misunderstood the wiring.

the heatlink needs to be fitted next to the wiring center, the white wire would go to your exisitng thermostat in the pattress, so disconnect any other wire connected to the white wire and do as picasso says.

then find the other wire and the neutral if any to the thermostat and disconnect those 2, you can then use any of those 2 redundant wires to connect to t1 and t2 and then wire the nest itself in place of your old thermostat ith the corresponding wires, be careful though get the wire wrong and connect the thermostat to a live 240v connection and its goodnight thermostat.

if you dont feel comfortable with that then do as picasso says and use the provided usb adaptor and lead to power the thermostat itself, takes the risk out then.
 
the instructions for connecting nest up via zone valves are near the end of the booklet, unfortunately you have read the wrong wiring diagram and misunderstood the wiring.

I followed the one at the end of the booklet. I may well have misunderstood it though!

the heatlink needs to be fitted next to the wiring center, the white wire would go to your exisitng thermostat in the pattress, so disconnect any other wire connected to the white wire and do as picasso says.

then find the other wire and the neutral if any to the thermostat and disconnect those 2, you can then use any of those 2 redundant wires to connect to t1 and t2 and then wire the nest itself in place of your old thermostat ith the corresponding wires, be careful though get the wire wrong and connect the thermostat to a live 240v connection and its goodnight thermostat.

As I've said a couple of times already, my old thermostat is WIRELESS. It has no wires going to it whatsoever.
 

That's a pity because your comment was helpful and I've had another look at the installation guide. I'm not there yet, but moving closer thanks to the help I'm getting. Clearly talking about wires to the thermostat don't really help given that I don't have any!

I found the diagram for "Switched Live" and followed that, given that the Boiler quite clearly has a switched live connection. But what I am guessing you meant is that I should actually follow the "Boiler with zone valves" diagram instead?
 
Erm attached to the 3 port which will be wired into a box of some sort.

Yes, I realised that already. I mean at the other end (i.e. where it goes after that box on the wall). Now I realise that I am meant to follow a different diagram I can see that it would work to put the Heat Link box upstairs near the valve itself, so I don't need to worry about where it goes when it goes downstairs.
 
The lads are trying to tell you, that although your stat is wireless, it will have a receiver somewhere, probably in next to your wiring centre in airing cupboard. ;)
 
The lads are trying to tell you, that although your stat is wireless, it will have a receiver somewhere, probably in next to your wiring centre in airing cupboard. ;)

It might have saved their frustration if they'd actually said that! I do appreciate the efforts though and realise it must be frustrating talk to a novice. When I help people who work in a profession different to my own I know it takes a lot of effort not to think "why not just get a professional to do it", but that's the point about helping, right? Everyone has to start somewhere and if I didn't want to help I just wouldn't post. In the case of this thermostat, I would get a professional in but the circumstances are complicated so I need to try to do it myself if at all possible.

The wiring centre in the airing cupboard is extremely hard to get at. I've not seen a wireless receiver there, but I wasn't look for one because I assumed it was built in to the controller in the kitchen. I'm now a few hundred miles away (told you it was complicated!) so I'll look next time I'm there.

Having just googled the wireless receiver I now realise that it controls the valve directly. This is really good news, right? All I have to to do is locate that and then I can just follow the original installation diagram because it will match up - already having looked at the installation instructions for the wireless receiver I can that it "fits" with the Nest installation diagram.

Sorry it's take so long to get here - evidently the answer all along was "Install the heat link in place of the wireless receiver which will be near the valve"!!!
 
As you have a wireless thermostat, you will need to plug the nest into the supplied adpator. This is to charge the internal battery in the nest.

If you had a wired thermostat, the original thermostat wires are used to power the nest from the heat link via 12v.
 
Thanks xr4x4 but I've already taken care of thermostate/control unit on the wall, powering it via USB, so no issues there.
 
Thanks xr4x4 but I've already taken care of thermostate/control unit on the wall, powering it via USB, so no issues there.

Ok, great.

So yes, basically the heat link will replace your wireless stat receiver unit.
 

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