New and a Project

[PaceyUK]

Hi I'm Pacey a DIY fan and just statrting my biggest project yet.

I will keep this a little short as I just wrote a huge essay on my project and circumstance then clicked add media to add some pictures to find my entire text had been deleted on upload....

So yeah, I recently had a child and moved in with my partner and her 6 year old from a previous. It's noisy as hell trying to work from home (Game producer) with the 2 kids and the missus.

So the project. Brick built outhouse already has electric and lighting but needs a hell of a lot of work.

My to do list:

• Fully re-do pointing and some brick repair.
• Roof repairs as felt is missing from one side.
• Inside wall repair, tons of holes, cracks, half bricks missing and such.
• Insulation of walls.
• Plasterboard and possibly wet plaster if taping doesn't look up to scratch.
• Window frame needs building in to allow the extra depth of insulation and plaster.
• Door needs insulation and strengthening.
• Guttering needs some work. Leaning to one side and lots of holes/cracks.
• The ceiling is one of the biggest issues. It's been plastered but started coming down what looks like years ago. it's through what looks like metal mesh roof supports and it's pretty much impossibly to fully remove and start again. So maybe wet plaster if it will hold. If not just plasterboard on an uneven surface and hope for the best.
• Flooring needs sorting. it's just concrete now.
• Then fully decorate and furnish.

I have no formal training. Most of this will simply be done from winging it and youtube videos. Also hopefully some advice on here!
Here's some pics from today.

IMG_20150813_182619

• PaceyUK
• 17 Aug 2015

IMG_20150813_182606

• PaceyUK
• 17 Aug 2015

IMG_20150813_182556

• PaceyUK
• 17 Aug 2015

IMG_20150813_182544

• PaceyUK
• 17 Aug 2015

IMG_20150813_182540

• PaceyUK
• 17 Aug 2015

 

[Burnerman]

I'll just start you off.......
Get the roof completely done (fibreglass coatings are now the rage) and then prevent the gutters from spilling water down the wall.
The building is likely to be single skin brickwork, although there should be a DPC in there......check out how you can prevent water coming through and spoiling future work (tanking and lining).
Consider the possibility of a damp proof membrane on the floor, and then raising it, adding insulation?
A lot can depend on the size of the piggy bank!
John

 

[PaceyUK]

I'll just start you off.......
Get the roof completely done (fibreglass coatings are now the rage) and then prevent the gutters from spilling water down the wall.
The building is likely to be single skin brickwork, although there should be a DPC in there......check out how you can prevent water coming through and spoiling future work (tanking and lining).
Consider the possibility of a damp proof membrane on the floor, and then raising it, adding insulation?
A lot can depend on the size of the piggy bank!
John

For the roof I was just planning on patching up the felt that's already on there. As there's only a few areas that require attention. I also have Thompsons roof seal to then go over the full roof as an extra precaution.

Yeah, it's single skin brickwork. To stop the water I was planning on just fully coating the inside and outside in Thompsons water seal for brickwork.

After repairing the brickwork, roof and guttering and coating them in the water seal the plan was to build in a 25mm (depth) frame against the brickwork and insert the insulation between (25mm Jablite Insulation Board - Already have). Then a vapor barrier over the top and finally plasterboard screwed into the frame and taped up.

Damp proofing the flooring and raising it didn't even cross my mind to be honest. The base of the outhouse is already raised from ground level a good 5 inches in solid concrete. Would you still advise this?

I should also mention the room is only 8ft x 7ft so trying to save as much room as possible. Funds are also lacking with recently moving so it's going to take longer than I would like, as I can only get bits as and when we have spare cash. (Not to mention we are not finished sorting the main house)

But I will post progress reports/images as it happens

I am still certainly a novice so if you do see any issues or fault in any of my plan. Please point it out!

 

[Burnerman]

Best to read up on how and where to install vapour barriers on walls......the likes of waterseal are fine for porous materials but don't prevent water ingress at all where there are cracks.
MKMs Evercryl is excellent for roofs and tanking.
The floor could be fine but it will be cold - hence my comment on insulating it.
Do spend as much time as is necessary getting the building watertight - which includes checking where it joins an existing structure.
John

 

[PaceyUK]

Is that the wrong place for a vapour barrier like? If so I did read up on it but I'm guessing from a bad source? Haha.

I planned on fixing all the holes/cracks before coating it in waterseal. But yeah. I guess I should look at better solution with the amount of rain we get up here!

Oh and it doesn't join to any other buildings. This building also has a toilet and smaller room via another 2 external doors but I will be doing the same work on those at the same time. Minus the insulation/plaster and such.

 

[Burnerman]

I did a similar project for some folks a while ago.....this was on a 3 wall lean to, pitched roof, concrete floor.
The main wall faced north, rain bleached on the west wall. - all single skin brick. I had to create a laundry room, so nowt fancy and the people were skint anyhow.
As far as building regs go, this was very cavalier......anyway -
The wall interiors I coated in Evercryl. This is a glass fibre reinforced sealing agent, which stinks to hell. It can be brushed or troweled. (I brushed it). I continued the Evercryl 2" onto the concrete floor. This kept driving rain out.
The wall exteriors were treated with Sealocrete - the same as waterseal.
Next on the walls, I fixed tantalised timber laths - 1 1/2" x 2" if I recall. In between the laths went a Kingspan equivalent with a waterproof backing.
I used Wickes Aquapanel boards screwed to the laths, and finished that with white masonry paint after filling the joins.
Now - all I can say is that the walls are still impervious to water even now, and it did create a useful space.
There's no staining on the Aquapanel either, anywhere.
John

 

[PaceyUK]

Now that's a lot of water proofing! Thanks for the advice John! I will reconsider my plans and see if I can up my efforts and spend on that front!

 

[Burnerman]

This building was in a very exposed situation......maybe yours isn't as bad. All I can say is that water was visible on the inside of the brickwork (above DPC) after heavy bleaching rain, so it was as bad as it could be.
Anyhow, it seemed to work fine......I didn't need to touch the roof as it had been reslated before my appearance. I don't know how the guy finished the inside of that!
Anyway, a few thoughts for you, and good luck with your project!
John