new bathroom suite-valves and connection questions

[diymonkey]

I am removing a toilet, basin and bath for a nice white suite. i'm installing an excel thermo mixer shower to put in the stud wall. it is a combo boiler

I need servicing valves for all. I have read on this forum that they need to be full bore so as not to restrict the flow. I am tapping off the pipework for the bath for the shower

i have seen some flush neat looking ones here

http://www.pegler.com/products/inde...oducts|0#Prestex|2#Ball+Valves|43#&template=1

1 will these chrome ones be ok with copper pipe?

2 I was thinking of using yorkshire fittings because of the solder already being there. How do you fit the service valves though. Can you get them with solder in or do you have to solder them yourself?

3 I am going to cut the pipes to the bath v near the taps to remove the bath. the branch off the main pipes to the bath has a further branch off the cold water one for the electric shower which will be removed. i may do the same for the hot water and put a service valve in both to cut off the bath and shower together.

i(a)s this ok?
(b) the branch is not straight-will that make it more aukward?
(c) after a service valve the pipe will be close to the bath so the flexi tap connectors will be bunched up-does that matter

any help is appreciated

 

[Paul Barker]

service valves are compressin not solder fit.

no need to use full bore, cheap ball valves will me fine.

no need to put service valves on bath and shower seperately, actually you only have to put them on anything with a float valve (toilet in your case), and on the hot water supply in general, which your combi already has.

You don't have to put them on basins baths or showers, but it's advisable.

do a aloop the loop with the flexi.

 

[diymonkey]

8)

i thought the service valves were compression only! but they are fine-ok

thanks for the reply with the rest-that givesme some peace of mind

 

[diymonkey]

1 other thing

just off the branches for the bath i intend to put the service valve but the length and height at that point would be fine cause it is not far from the bath-I presume though that I have to have another piece of copper pipe coming out of the valve-I cannot install tap connectors to the valve

It's probably the stupidest question in the world but if someone can put me staright. Presumably though it can just be a tiny piece of pipe to then connect to the flexi tap connectors. The same goes for the basin really.

With the toilet can I do a big piece of pipe out of the other end so that when I do the toilet another day I can just cut it at that point to the right height?

Does the pipe have to be dead staright to connect a service valve-no bends?

 

[Paul Barker]

Yes put a piece of pipe in the service valve then a T do you can t off for your shouwer, then another piece of pipe then your fexi for the bath taps. Or buy a fexi with service valve built in, t off before it for the shower with or without service valve.

Toilet we usually bring copper out of floor at back near skirtung and put double set on it to bring it to right distance from wall, then service valve bit more pipe hepworth push fit tap connector. This tap connector has a cone shaped rubber seal at end that fits into the plastic 1/2" spigot of the wc. Thes plastic parts are finished to a very por quality and are guaranteed to leak with fibre washers unless you make sure the machining is of suitable quality or finish it yourself. A flexi also seals as that has a rubber washer except the really cheap ones which have a thin useless fibre washer that may aswell be cardboard.

You must have isolation on the wc per water regs.

You won't be able to put a double set on, so in your case drill your hole exactly under where it is needed. The flexi will make up for any errors, but try to get length right, nothing looks worse than a loop the loop in a visible point, or a kink.

Try and arrange your pipes beneath so that there is a little up and down play so when using fixed pipework you can get tap connector on and off easily.

Yes have to have straight pipe to attach compression joint to.

Glad I 'm not in your shoes, I know folk who know a lot more than you that are guaranteed to get leaks......................

Don't walk away from it after you turn water on, hover around and check every joint, you'll need some towels handy! Have someone ready by stop tap and downstairs tap, turn on tap and off stop cock soon as you see the inevitable leak/s.

 

[diymonkey]

8)

thank you for the advice and yes it might be a bit complicated so i will consider whether to do it myself or not

 

[Paul Barker]

Yes I don't mean to sound condesending, but plumbing involves the ability to fight the natural tendency for water to squeeze through gaps. We constantly battle with this in the spite of the poor design of what we have to work with and poor build quality. With the questions you are asking it is clear that you will loose this fight at first, but you can win the war, just don't think it's as simple as painting by numbers.