New Floodlight with Switch in the Garage

[cfherd]

Just looking for advice on whether this is even possible before I call out the professionals. I suspect it is but wouldn't be keen if it is complicated (expensive).

What I am looking to do is fairly simple; add a floodlight over my garage door to light my driveway however I don’t want it to be PIR controlled so it would be turned on from switch in the garage instead.

There is an existing switch in the garage which controls the light in there. Could the single switch be changed to a double which then runs to the new light? Would the current come from the existing switch or would it need to be run from somewhere else?

If the job is fairly simple I may do it myself (I've added in a spurred socket before) but have never done this type of work so may just call in the pros!

Help as always would be appreciated.

Thanks
Chris

 

[Taylortwocities]

It may be possible to run the cable from teh switch but it depends on how the lighting circuit has been wired.

Have a look in the WIKI for lighting circuits first. If you're not sure then post a photo of the wiring behind that switch.

 

[cfherd]

I've seen similar switches in house (that I've change from the standard white) where there is a small red wire running between the two common connections. Presumably taking the live to the next circuit (if that's the correct wording).

I'll take a pic tonight of the switch as it is (currently single) and post it up.

Thanks for replying so fast BTW!

 

[Taylortwocities]

Don't forget to look in the WIKI, you haven't yet, have you

Most of the answers are already listed and explained there. Its there so the same thing doesn't have to be repeated over and over and over again.

 

[cfherd]

Sorry...looking now...

 

[cfherd]

I think this is what what I am trying to do - without the supply to the next light.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/_detail/...gif?id=electrics:lighting:single_way_lighting

 

[Chri5]

That will only work if the loop in lighting system is at the switch, in general terms it's unlikely you will find a neutral at the switch in situ.

Look in the garage you will see the switch wire that exists, does it go direct to the light in the garage or via a junction?

Look in the wiki for single switch lighting.

Simplest would be to find the LNE for the garage lighting circuit, extend that down to a switch and then run a feed from switch to the new flood light.

Have a look at TLC southern web site for materials, maybe a remote switch would be sensible x 3- one for your car, one for hers, and one for the hall key hook holder.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I think this is what what I am trying to do - without the supply to the next light.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/_detail/...gif?id=electrics:lighting:single_way_lighting

We know what you are trying to do and what lighting diagrams look like.

We need to know what you have got so we can advise you.

 

[cfherd]

Thanks for that, however it seems to be (for whatever reason) the way it's done in my house? I'll confirm tonight though and post up a pic.

Like your idea about the remote switch however I will mainly just be using it for working on the car in the dark rather than switching it on when approaching.

 

[cfherd]

I think this is what what I am trying to do - without the supply to the next light.

//www.diynot.com/wiki/_detail/...gif?id=electrics:lighting:single_way_lighting

We know what you are trying to do and what lighting diagrams look like.

We need to know what you have got so we can advise you.

Sorry, just tring to prove I'd looked at the wiki! I'll post up a pic tonight when I get back.

 

[cfherd]

Ok, here is how the wiring is at the switch.

Untitled

• cfherd
• 13 Mar 2012
• 1

And at the light.

Untitled

• cfherd
• 13 Mar 2012
• 1

I suppose I could run a cable from the light to the new light and then to either the existing (changing to a double) or new separate switch but I also plan to spur another two lights in parallel off the existing light.

Hope this information helps.

 

[wingcoax]

You are lucky, you have a neutral loop at the switch. Run a twin and earth to the flood light position and fit a two gang switch instead of a one gang, connect a strapper(link) between the two commons and the new live to the L1
the neutral to the chocbloc with the two blues and the earth to earth.

 

[cfherd]

You are lucky, you have a neutral loop at the switch. Run a twin and earth to the flood light position and fit a two gang switch instead of a one gang, connect a strapper(link) between the two commons and the new live to the L1
the neutral to the chocbloc with the two blues and the earth to earth.

Kind of what I thought so glad to know I was on the right track. There are 3 cables in there already so would adding a 4th be a problem? Don't want to overload the system!

 

[riveralt]

You are lucky, you have a neutral loop at the switch. Run a twin and earth to the flood light position and fit a two gang switch instead of a one gang, connect a strapper(link) between the two commons and the new live to the L1
the neutral to the chocbloc with the two blues and the earth to earth.

Kind of what I thought so glad to know I was on the right track. There are 3 cables in there already so would adding a 4th be a problem? Don't want to overload the system!

Overloading will depend on the power of the floodlight and the total capacity of that lighting circuit.
Domestic floodlights generally have to be below 150w - although some councils want it lower.
Just remember that when you replace the current switch with the new double gang switch you are running a live loop into the switch - two reds together. So make sure you mark and record which terminal houses which conductors.
You would then run a link wire from the terminal with two reds in to the new gang Common. The new cable blue (neutral) gets connected to the blue terminal block and the earth to the earth block. The brown cable to the L1 on your new gang. Then run you new T&E cable from the switch to the new lights L/N/E.

Edit: the reds could be brown - need a new monitor!!!!!

 

[cfherd]

You are lucky, you have a neutral loop at the switch. Run a twin and earth to the flood light position and fit a two gang switch instead of a one gang, connect a strapper(link) between the two commons and the new live to the L1
the neutral to the chocbloc with the two blues and the earth to earth.

Kind of what I thought so glad to know I was on the right track. There are 3 cables in there already so would adding a 4th be a problem? Don't want to overload the system!

Overloading will depend on the power of the floodlight and the total capacity of that lighting circuit.
Domestic floodlights generally have to be below 150w - although some councils want it lower.
Just remember that when you replace the current switch with the new double gang switch you are running a live loop into the switch - two reds together. So make sure you mark and record which terminal houses which conductors.
You would then run a link wire from the terminal with two reds in to the new gang Common. The new cable blue (neutral) gets connected to the blue terminal block and the earth to the earth block. The brown cable to the L1 on your new gang. Then run you new T&E cable from the switch to the new lights L/N/E.

Edit: the reds could be brown - need a new monitor!!!!!

I'll be sure to check the capacity before proceeding but interesting point on the floodlight wattage. I've recently fitted a floodlight at the back of the house and that's 500w! Think I may need to tone it down a tad if it needs to be 150 or less!