New fridge/freezer compressor rattling

[Mattenstein]

Hi all

2 days ago I installed (well, plugged in) a new Bosch fridge/freezer. The delivery guys advised me to wait 4 hours before plugging it in, which I did, I then waited several hours before putting anything in it. All was well for a few hours after that. Then in the middle of the night it started getting stuck in a cycle which sounded like the freezer starting up for a few seconds, then stopping followed by a brief but unnerving rattling noise, which I think might be the compressor? (metal vessel-like component in the base).
It continued cycling like this through the next day but eventually seemed to calm down, and then it sounded like the freezer was running without issue like it should be. However that night, sure enough, the cycle with the rattling commenced again.

I have read that some noise can be expected while the appliance 'settles in', but I'm worried this exceeds that. I have registered it with Bosch, should I contact them?

Cheers.

 

[opps]

Record the noise and contact the tech help desk.

A few years ago we purchased a heat pump tumble drier. It was really noisy. I download a decibel meter for my phone and sent them the readings. They swapped it out.

By contacting them, you have told them about a potential fault at the point of purchase. Under UK law, after 6 months, you need to prove that the device was faulty at the point of purchase.

That said, it may well be the refrigerant settling. I don't know. Hopefully someone else will be along soon that can give you a qualified answer.

 

[foxhole]

Under UK law, after 6 months, you need to prove that the device was faulty at the point of purchase.

Where did you find that ?
1st year you do not need to prove anything .

 

[opps]

Under UK law, after 6 months, you need to prove that the device was faulty at the point of purchase.

Where did you find that ?
1st year you do not need to prove anything .

If, however, a fault is detected after the first 6 months, the burden of proof switches from the trader to the consumer. The consumer must prove that the product was faulty at the time of purchase. (see page 12 - Consumer Rights Act 2015).

That said, many products will be sold with a 12 month warranty from the manufacturer. However, your contract is with the retailer and not the manufacturer. Not all manufacturers offer a 12 month warranty.

Proof, if taking out a small claims court case, can be as simple as an "engineer" saying that the part should not have failed. In theory, you have up to 6 years under English law with regards to reliability. In the event that your appliance dies after, eg, 5 years, the judge will factor in the usage/utility/depreciation when ruling on any cost settlement.

Before Brexit, the likes of Samsung offered us 24 month warranties to comply with EU law.

 

[foxhole]

Returned a 3 years old tv which failed , no proof was asked for and received compensation .

 

[ericmark]

The refrigeration plant can be split into at least three different types, the commercial plant, often the motor varies speed to control the temperature, higher end domestic use a three-phase motor and an inverter, which allows a start without a massive inrush, and a near silent freezer, but the cheap method used for years, uses a single phase motor, and the problem is it needs to start before the pressure builds up, or it will stall.

So with the cheap fridge/freezer voltage is critical, it is about the only item where voltage is still critical, if the unit is turned off then back on before the pressure has dropped the motor will stall, and the over-load will trip, by the time it has cooled, you can restart it with no pressure, but also low voltage will result in a delayed start, and delay it too much, and the motor will stall, which is why nearly every instruction set, tells one not to use an extension lead, not only is there a resistance in the cable, but also in the fuse, so duplicating on the fuses used, can cause a problem.

So we are permitted a supply to the home of 230 volts +10% or -6% so 216.2 to 253 volts, and in the home, we are allowed 5% volt drop, so 205.39 volts to 253 volts, that is a massive volt drop, still within the regulations. We can measure volt drop by measuring the loop impedance, 0.59Ω more than the incoming impedance means the volt drop within the house, is too much.

However, with the installation certificate used today, we don't record the loop impedance, so hard to show the installation is at fault. So an electrician can easily get away with using too much cable when installing a ring final.

I can easily measure volts, but to record the volts over time is more of a problem. My solar panel software shows on 22/12/2025 19:14 the smart meter will also show volts, but although the DNO may record the volts, the IHD (in home display) does not show it, never mind record it.

So with a cheap fridge/freezer, how does one show the unit is at fault, and not the supply?

I am sure people will challenge what I have said, so I have my hard hat on, ready for the flack.