New house problem

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Does an outside security light have to have a separate switch, like a normal light switch, or can it be wired in without, with presumably the only way of isolating it at the junction box?

We have one on the wall of our new house and we were told that we could have had a switch if we'd asked, but there was nothing in the literature to say that this one (at an extra cost of £90) wasn't switched, so we therefore didn't know to ask. It's a halogen one with PIR.

It's actually next to useless anyway, as it's at the second storey level of a three-storey house, and there is a kitchen off-shot blocking the detection zone in front of the kitchen. So, if a burglar came up the side entrance and in front of the kitchen, they would not be detected.

Also we can't reach it, to change bulb etc, so it would entail either buying a ladder, which would be a bit of a problem over the off-shot, or leaning right out of the bedroom window.

I have asked for it to be moved lower, but have been told that it is in their standard position. They reluctantly agreed to look into it, but it would mean having the new wiring trailing across the walls of the house to the new position. My call this morning was to see if they would remove the thing and give us a refund. They are looking into this.
 
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You should really have a switch installed or some method of turning it off for mechanical maintenance (i.e. changing the lamp).
 
Thanks for your swift reply.

That's what I thought. I just need to find some evidence to give to them to prove my point.
 
Generally speaking it is good practice to fit a switch to allow lighting to be isolated for repair/ maintenance - the regs require a means of isolation to be fitted.

You're right about Halogen lamps with PIR's - they are an expensive-to-run waste of time. Much better would be a low energy fitting with integral dusk to dawn sensor
 
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Topsparks, that's very good to know. Thanks for that.

Hopefully we can get it removed and have something more useful put in the proper place.
 
Regulation 462 Switching off for mechanical maintenance,
A means of switching off for mechanical maintenance where mechanical maintenance may involve a risk of burns,
Each device for switching off for mech maint shall be suitably located and identified by durable marking where necessary,
Except where means of swithcing off is continuously under the control of the person doing the maintenance, suitable provision shall be made to prevent the reactivation during maintenance.
 
Thanks for all your replies.

I thought I would wait till I got home before posting again, so that I could check whether there was an isolation switch on the junction box. We can't see anything anywhere that appears to be connected with the security light. We are not aware that there are any more fuse boxes anywhere in the house, other than the one for the burglar alarm.

So, it appears that we can't isolate the light for changing bulb, etc.

I think I will be on the phone again tomorrow. I have also printed off this thread.
 
would a switching device be ok on the consumer unit (say the circuit breaker)

As its external lighting should it be on a different circuit to the rest of the internal lights?
 
Mr Winston said:
would a switching device be ok on the consumer unit (say the circuit breaker)

As its external lighting should it be on a different circuit to the rest of the internal lights?

Must have been posting at the same time.

I mean the consumer unit, or RCB is it called? I'm not very educated in these electrical terms, as you can probably tell. Anyway, it doesn't have a switch for the light in there.
 
the consumer unit, it has an mcb (mechanical circuit breaker) in there which more than likely switches the lighting circuit off. but apparently this is not a proper means of isolation.

although it will allow you to change the light or lamp or fitting without getting burned or getting electric shock :D

Lorraine
 
lorraine said:
the consumer unit, it has an mcb (mechanical circuit breaker) in there which more than likely switches the lighting circuit off. but apparently this is not a proper means of isolation.

although it will allow you to change the light or lamp or fitting without getting burned or getting electric shock :D

Lorraine

Yes, there are two lighting circuit switches, one for downstairs and one for upstairs. Presumably it's the upstairs one, despite the fact that we have two upstairs, as it's three storey!
 
it might not be, it may be wired off the ring main, the best way is to test it with a multimeter failing that, if youa regoing to do any maintenance turn the main switch off and that will kill all the circuits.
 
some halogen units with pirs are programmable; if you switch the power on and off quickly the light will remain on constantly, to put the light back to automatic you need to beak the supply for over 5 seconds. this is another reason apart from the safety and maintenance reasons why an external lighting unit always should have a switch
 
JK said:
some halogen units with pirs are programmable; if you switch the power on and off quickly the light will remain on constantly, to put the light back to automatic you need to beak the supply for over 5 seconds. this is another reason apart from the safety and maintenance reasons why an external lighting unit always should have a switch

I'm not so sure that the builders would have thought to make such a consideration when installing this light. It seems to have been a case of "install it as quickly and cheaply as possible and run".

Hopefully it won't be an issue, if they agree to remove it. Then we'll get topsparks in to fit one of them dusk till dawn lights (you're not too far away from us, topsparks).
 

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