New Kitchen installation,thus moving of stop cock.

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Hi guys just thought i would get the experts advise on some simple water related query, New kitchen coming in on the 8th May, Gas man is out on the 6th to cut gas supply to remove remainder of units,

I have a slight problem with my water, I need to move "well I think I do " my stop cock slightly to the left of original position as sink is moving over and washing machine is going to be in place of existing under sink piping.

with the new position of sink, My hot water pipe will also have to be looked at. I would also like to install out outside tap coming from the same point. Pictures to follow.

What would your view be on this, i.e. how easy to complete and tricky issues I need to think about, should I use existing pipe work or start fresh.

Hope you can give me some advise

you fine peeps :)

Thanks Dean



Pictures.

Existing unit, washing machine and under sink piping.




New drawing of kitchen unit, washing position, and new sink position.



existing under sink pipe work. to be reorganised and moved



existing pipe work and water inlet under units and hot water pipe at back of unit

 
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No big issues as long as you have control of the incoming water mains (external stopcock) and you can isolate the hot water supply.

Start afresh as you are going to alter most of the pipework.

Nothing tricky but it depends on your skill levels.

Make sure that you plan for all the connections/locations and allow for isolation of all fittings before start.

Your new outside tap will require accessible internal (within the building) double-check valve/isolator/draincock

By the way - that washing machine standpipe is way too low - if your drains block then the waste waster from the sink will be coming out of the washing machine standpipe (just as well you're replacing it!)

Just another thought - get rid of that self-cutting fitting on the main and don't fit another one!
 
Thanks Newboy,
Having control of external stop cock I do, but I have to find out which one is mine. lol



Also with regards isolating hot water supply can I not just simply drain all water out of house once mains water has stopped coming into house.

what do you mean by this Your new outside tap will require accessible internal (within the building) double-check valve/isolator/draincock.

I will defo keep in mind everything else you have mentioned especially the washing machine waste water pipe, "would you suggest i raise it has hi as possible when new cupboard is installed.

The crappy little self cutting fitting was my dad's idea of trying to get me a out door tap quick and easy way, it does not work, lol as he ended up crushing the pipe. So its not in used.

Thank you again Newboy
 
For the washing machine waste, get rid of standpipe and use sink trap with nozzle for hose to connect to.

By looking at plan, the main stopcock does not need moving, it should be fine where it is.

Daniel.
 
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Use this for the washing machine waste connection (or similar depending on single/1.5/double bowl sink.)
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-appliance-trap-40mm-white/81714
Make sure that the washing machine waste rises to the underside of the worktop before connecting to the spigot on the sink trap -to prevent sink waste water flowing into the washing machine.

Use these for you washing machine water supply
http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-x-washing-machine-valve-without-check-valve/51231

Use these for isolating hot/cold supplies to the sink
http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-blue-15mm/11085
http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-red-15mm/21289

Use these to maintain EP bonding
http://www.screwfix.com/p/earth-clamp-ec15-external-a-d-12-32mm-pack-of-20/57444

Use these for the outside tap supply inside the building
http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-stop-cock/31490
http://www.screwfix.com/p/15mm-double-check-valve/96336
http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-15bdcp-drain-cocks-15mm/12232

connected to these outside the building
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate/56415
http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-hu-bib-tap-with-check-valve/11558

Personally I'd put an elbow on the MDPE incoming main, turn it back to the wall and have the stopcock accessible through the back of the unit.

Run all the pipework in the service void behind the cabinets and bring through at the appropriate locations - end feed fittings - no hidden compression fitings.

The only place for self-cutting taps is
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hailo-0845-130-household-waste-bin-white-45ltr/37618
 
Stardanny, Thanks for washing advise, and yes your right it luckily does not need to be positioned, but I think my waste water pipe leading outside will need to be moved which is a bit of a bitch..... Im not to sure on what you mean by "sink trap nozzle" will have to goggle it :)


Thanks again Newboy, especially for giving your time to provide me with what i would need to complete my job. I have how ever been looking at plastic push fittings instead, Whats your thoughts on these? The water pipe coming into kitchen is I think 22mm blue plastic piping, which is then connected to my stop cock. thought I could run straight away Plastic stop cock then continue with push fit connections. The only real query I have with this is what i would do to join from plastic to copper with my hot water taps.


Thanks again guys,

Kitchen is nearly upon me so need to make sure I have planned and brought ready.
 
Professionally I wouldn't use a bib tap with a check valve:
a) they should only be used to replace an existing bib tap with check valve (I.e. Should not be used on a new installation).
b) you'll have a double check valve fitted upstream of the bib tap anyway.
c) I've seen many bib taps with check valves fail after a severe frost, pointless.

What has not been mentioned is that a double check valve should be installed upstream of a washing machine valve.

James.
 

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