Newbie self install alarm system need help system purchase

[SPSOB]

Hi,

There have been some opportunistic burglaries in our area recently, and the local police have advised that I install a security system, so I have been looking into the various options.

A monitored system from one of the main players starts at £449 minimum for basic installation plus £20.53 per month monitoring only (no emergency services), so first year costs look like £695 or £757 including emergency services, then £246 per annum thereafter.

I have therefore decided to install a system myself, which should not be a problem, and on reading various posts have decided that a wired system is better in terms of value for money and reliability, if not ease of installation, over a wireless system.

The house is fully double glazed with UPVC external doors throughout if this makes a difference.

The Texecom Premier 48 system fits what I need and it is only a small price premium over the Premier 24 system when purchased as a kit and the manufacturer has received good reviews / comments.

I will need to add some extras to the basic kit and need some advice on the following matters please, I am totally new to alarm systems so forgive any basic or silly questions asked.

1) As PIRs are relatively inexpensive, would ideally there be one in every room and hallway of the house?
2) If the PIRs are also covering forced access through windows downstairs, are the dual technology ones better, IR plus Microwave, so no heat based false alarms? (we don't have any pets)
3) I will need 3 door contacts, Texecom have 'shock sensors', does this perform the same function as a 2-part magnetic contact?
4) Would like to add smoke detectors as part of the system, 1 upstairs and 1 downstairs
5) Would a breakglass detector be recommended, or unnecessary?
6) Considering all the above, there are 11 items, does each item need to be an individual zone in the system? The Premier 48 says it has 8 zones built in, so it looks like I need an zone expander module to increase the zones to 16. Is this correct?
7) The kit comes with a keypad/proximity reader and a communication board for SMS messages to be sent, do these take up a zone each also?
8 ) What are programmable outputs used for?

I emailed two suppliers of alarm systems asking these questions but received half hearted answers from them, so am looking to forums like this for advice.

Thanks for any help and advice people can give.

Steve

 

[bob-the-builder]

 

[Atilla]

Hi,

There have been some opportunistic burglaries in our area recently, and the local police have advised that I install a security system, so I have been looking into the various options.

A monitored system from one of the main players starts at £449 minimum for basic installation plus £20.53 per month monitoring only (no emergency services), so first year costs look like £695 or £757 including emergency services, then £246 per annum thereafter.

I have therefore decided to install a system myself, which should not be a problem, and on reading various posts have decided that a wired system is better in terms of value for money and reliability, if not ease of installation, over a wireless system.

The house is fully double glazed with UPVC external doors throughout if this makes a difference.

The Texecom Premier 48 system fits what I need and it is only a small price premium over the Premier 24 system when purchased as a kit and the manufacturer has received good reviews / comments.

I will need to add some extras to the basic kit and need some advice on the following matters please, I am totally new to alarm systems so forgive any basic or silly questions asked.

1) As PIRs are relatively inexpensive, would ideally there be one in every room and hallway of the house?
2) If the PIRs are also covering forced access through windows downstairs, are the dual technology ones better, IR plus Microwave, so no heat based false alarms? (we don't have any pets)
3) I will need 3 door contacts, Texecom have 'shock sensors', does this perform the same function as a 2-part magnetic contact?
4) Would like to add smoke detectors as part of the system, 1 upstairs and 1 downstairs
5) Would a breakglass detector be recommended, or unnecessary?
6) Considering all the above, there are 11 items, does each item need to be an individual zone in the system? The Premier 48 says it has 8 zones built in, so it looks like I need an zone expander module to increase the zones to 16. Is this correct?
7) The kit comes with a keypad/proximity reader and a communication board for SMS messages to be sent, do these take up a zone each also?
8 ) What are programmable outputs used for?

I emailed two suppliers of alarm systems asking these questions but received half hearted answers from them, so am looking to forums like this for advice.

Thanks for any help and advice people can give.

Steve

A strange sort of post. Strange indeed.

Best advice would be to go back to the company who quoted you, get a full explanation of the system quoted and why etc.
Then get two other quotes from recognised installers, note i say recognised. Ask them the same questions regarding their quotes you ask the first company. By the way, this requires a site visit from the installation companies, not a simple phone call Q&A session.
Form a judgement from that.

 

[Denford1]

Hi ,
I would recommend quad pirs over dual techs , contacts are just to detect a door opening , whereas a shocker would detect someone kicking or banging on the door (I would think contacts would be sufficient).

I would recommend mains smokes just incase the alarm fails for any reason , you are not left without smoke detectors , that said I have a smoke detector on my alarm aswell as mains smokes..just to be extra careful!.

Keypads do not require a zone (the Premier has extra zones on the keypad).

Programmable outputs can be used for many things , they can mimic ex/ent times , bell or strobe output , armed state..virtually anything.
I would also suggest you get hold of the installation manual , and see if you are "up to it".

 

[bernardgreen]

Shock detectors ( or vibration detectors ) on perimeter doors and windows can trigger the alarm before the intruders can actual break into the building They may prevent a window or door being broken if the intruders run at the sound of the alarm when they rattle but do not break the door or window.

The can be difficult to set up to avoid false alarms from normal movements due to wind or ( in the case of a friend's business ) the local police pushing the door to check it was shut and locked.

 

[Lectrician]

I think you should get a Yale alarm system as they are far superior to anything else on the market, nothing else even comes close...

And they can ring you up when your on a lift in France! TWICE! Just to ruin your holiday!

 

[RF Lighting]

1) As PIRs are relatively inexpensive, would ideally there be one in every room and hallway of the house?

Normally I would be looking for one in every ground floor room, one in the hall and one on the landing.

It is not neccessary to protect the bedrooms etc, unless there is a particular reason to do so, such as a home office full of expensive equipment which has a window over looking a flat roof etc.

2) If the PIRs are also covering forced access through windows downstairs, are the dual technology ones better, IR plus Microwave, so no heat based false alarms? (we don't have any pets)

Personally, if the budget allows, I would fit dual tecs. As they require two independent types of detection methods to be activated to trigger the zone, they have a good immunity to false alarms.

3) I will need 3 door contacts, Texecom have 'shock sensors', does this perform the same function as a 2-part magnetic contact?

No, they are a different device. They will not detect a door being opened normally. They detect high impacts, such as someone trying to kick a door in, or put a window through.

4) Would like to add smoke detectors as part of the system, 1 upstairs and 1 downstairs

It is best to have proper hard wired mains smoke alarms independant of the alarm, but you could connect smoke detectors to this panel if you like.

You will have to make sure the alarm is loud enough in all the bedrooms with the doors shut to wake you from a deep sleep if you plan to do this.

5) Would a breakglass detector be recommended, or unnecessary?

It seems unnecessary to me unless you have an especially massive house, but then you might be getting into the territory of having a full fire alarm system installed if it is that big.

6) Considering all the above, there are 11 items, does each item need to be an individual zone in the system? The Premier 48 says it has 8 zones built in, so it looks like I need an zone expander module to increase the zones to 16. Is this correct?

Yes, each detector must be on it's own individual zone. You will need a zone expander if you have 11 zones.

You can get a module for that panel which plugs onto the main PCB in the end station, or if you have a few zones away from the panel, you could fit a stand alone expander remote from the panel.

7) The kit comes with a keypad/proximity reader and a communication board for SMS messages to be sent, do these take up a zone each also?

No, the SMS doofer plugs straight onto the main PCB, and the keypad is wired to the network terminals, completely seperate from the zone wiring.

8 ) What are programmable outputs used for?

Anything you like really. I have one which switches off the garage lights (via a relay) when you arm that area to stop you leaving them on by mistake.

 

[ahdsh]

I would be wary of shock sensors. In my line of installing for people who have been burgled I have heard stories of scrotes banging windows or doors to see if it sets the alarm off. If it does they just retreat and see if anyone turns up.
If noone turns up they know that its not linked to a monitoring station or the fuzz are too busy. If no neighbours come out they know they won't be disturbed and next time they go in and take their time.

 

[bernardgreen]

I would be wary of shock sensors. In my line of installing for people who have been burgled I have heard stories of scrotes banging windows or doors to see if it sets the alarm off. If it does they just retreat and see if anyone turns up.

Other sensors can be "response tested" using other simple methods.

I have ( in my line of designing electronic systems ) seen evidence of alarm systems being intentional "falsed" so often that they have been dis-abled.

But yes the rattling of a door to test response can be a problem but there are ways to cope with it. But not ones that can be given out on a public forum as that would defeat the purpose of them.

 

[SPSOB]

Thank you all for responses,

That gives me the info I need regarding what extras are needed.

I had already downloaded the manuals and am confident I can install the system.

Thanks again for the help, I may ask re EOLR wiring when I have digested the instructions.

 

[whistle]

I would be wary of shock sensors. In my line of installing for people who have been burgled I have heard stories of scrotes banging windows or doors to see if it sets the alarm off. If it does they just retreat and see if anyone turns up.
If noone turns up they know that its not linked to a monitoring station or the fuzz are too busy. If no neighbours come out they know they won't be disturbed and next time they go in and take their time.

sorry but thats too broad an assumption, it makes no allowance for the system design and signalling levels and should be taken with great caution.