No earth bonding to gas pipe

[Jackuzi]

Hi all,

I am fitting a new kitchen and I'm having a new 10mm circuit to the new cooker/hob. This is going to replace the 6mm that is currently there and the MCB changed to a 40A one. My electrician checked for earth bonding and although the water is bonded the gas is not. Can someone please tell me the cheapest solution for this. Where the water is bonded, the gas pipe is also located. I have been trying to research what is required by the regs. Easiest option is to extended the earth from the water bonded strap to the gas. If it needs to be unbroken then it may be possible to reroute to go to the gas first and then to the water as an unbroken run on the cable that is currently there. Would either of these be acceptable?
Additional info:
The water comes into the property on plastic pipe then goes copper from the stop cock, can you advise if this does need the bonding that it currently has, as if not then I could move this onto the gas.
Thanks peeps.

 

[Chri5]

Gas bonding must be done within 600mm of the customer side of the supply, so within 600mm of the gas meter.

If you want you can daisy chain the water bond, but it must be unbroken at the 1st clamp / bonding point.

Although it's not essential I do have preference for seperate 10mm earth cable for water and gas bonding.

Bonding can be done as a DIY job and as such should be a job you can undertake.

 

[Jackuzi]

Added info to initial post.

 

[Chri5]

PS. The water comes into the property on plastic pipe then goes copper from the stop cock, can you advise if this does need the bonding that it currently has, as if not then I could move this onto the gas.

Please don't drip feed info, you should detail such items at the initial post to prevent procrastination and wasted post time.

if the water bond is old enough to have been insitu since before the mains were changed from lead to plastic they are unlikely to be 10mm sq cable.

I suggest you consider that at £1 per meter (cut off price) and £1 for a clamp the job really should be done as new and seperate.

 

[Jackuzi]

PS. The water comes into the property on plastic pipe then goes copper from the stop cock, can you advise if this does need the bonding that it currently has, as if not then I could move this onto the gas.

Please don't drip feed info, you should detail such items at the initial post to prevent procrastination and wasted post time.

if the water bond is old enough to have been insitu since before the mains were changed from lead to plastic they are unlikely to be 10mm sq cable.

I suggest you consider that at £1 per meter (cut off price) and £1 for a clamp the job really should be done as new and seperate.

Firstly, thanks for the reply.

Secondly, apologies for the extra info, I thought of it 6 minutes after my initial post and did check I hadn't already had a reply so as to mess people about. We obviously posted at the same time.

The property is only 11 years old and I am pretty sure the plastic main was put in when it was built. The earth cable to it (on the copper side) does look quite chunky, probably about 4mm diameter if I recall correctly.

 

[SgtTrojan]

Regarding the unbroken "rule" (it's not written in BS7671:2008) it is in place in case the lead bonding conductor falls out of the clamp rendering the second pipework without best earth potential.

What if the connection is made with ring crimps?
Can it not then be classed as securely connected?

If the terminal screw comes loose then would that not be the same connection as a looped connection?

 

[londonboy]

If its 11 years old then I am surprised the bonding is not up to scratch already.

 

[Chri5]

What if the connection is made with ring crimps?
Can it not then be classed as securely connected?

If the terminal screw comes loose then would that not be the same connection as a looped connection?

The idea is that if the bonding went MET -> Water -> gas (or the other way round) if the 1st bond is removed it will still bond the 2nd bond point.

Ring crimps would discon on removal, would get HR readings if the screw were loose.

The only sure way is continous, although I would always run seperate for each bond service.