I have hot water but no heating. Have read messages below but only possibility is motorised valve problem. Timer seems to work as does thermostat. I can can manually get motorised valve to turn on pump for a second or so. Any suggestions please?
No Heating
- Thread starter remus
- Start date
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Sounds like your motorised valve is the cause of your problem.
You could remove the motor from the valve spindle, apply some WD40 and operate valve by hand a few times.
You should also be able to tell if valve moves to 'hot water' or 'heating' or 'mid position' while it is off the spindle.
You could remove the motor from the valve spindle, apply some WD40 and operate valve by hand a few times.
You should also be able to tell if valve moves to 'hot water' or 'heating' or 'mid position' while it is off the spindle.
Mandate, thank you, I will try that tomorrow. The lever is usually in the centre. If I push it to the right then the pump works but a spring operates and pulls it back to the centre position. The lever moves to the left freely, in fact there is no resistance at all and that does not seem right. Being new to this site, I see I have posted in the wrong area!!
It's some time since I was involved with a similar problem, but I thought the normal resting position was not the mid position when the system was closed down.
If it had been the case, I would have suspected a second spring broken or unhooked.
Best thing is to withdraw the motor before you switch on to see where the 'flat' on the spindle is.
The valve I was working on was a 'honeywell' and the securing scews had torque heads.
Just looked at a site that may be of interest www.diyfaq.org.uk
If it had been the case, I would have suspected a second spring broken or unhooked.
Best thing is to withdraw the motor before you switch on to see where the 'flat' on the spindle is.
The valve I was working on was a 'honeywell' and the securing scews had torque heads.
Just looked at a site that may be of interest www.diyfaq.org.uk
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The lever is usually in the centre. If I push it to the right then the pump works but a spring operates and pulls it back to the centre position. The lever moves to the left freely, in fact there is no resistance
remus:what you're saying is normal,if this still failed after MANDATE post have a look at the wiring to the programmer for loose connection as it could be asking not to open the valve or the wiring in the motor head could be corrosive.Programmer could be faulty,if that okay you can just change the motor head which is quite fiddly,easier to renew the complete motorized valve.Don't forget to drain the system down if you go ahead.
remus:what you're saying is normal,if this still failed after MANDATE post have a look at the wiring to the programmer for loose connection as it could be asking not to open the valve or the wiring in the motor head could be corrosive.Programmer could be faulty,if that okay you can just change the motor head which is quite fiddly,easier to renew the complete motorized valve.Don't forget to drain the system down if you go ahead.
Thank you for your helpful comments. I checked the motorised valve and it seems ok. What I have noticed is that when I turn on the water, power goes to the boiler but no power goes to the boiler when I turn on the heating. The timer seems to be functioning ok and I switched over the microswitches so its not that. Any more ideas please?
B
breezer
just out of curiosity what happens if you watch the valve and some one adjusts the room stat (UP) does the valve move?
If there is power at the boiler in one case and not in the other, then I would be looking at the timer/programer in more detail.
When you had the microswitchs off you could have checked them for continuity.
I suppose the first thing is to find out is whether the input side of the microswich is live (in both cases).If there's no live input then I would suspect the mechanism that operates the switch (ie cams/levers) may be worn.
As I understand it the timer has two seperate sides hot water and heating and each side has its own switch so you may have a faulty on/off switch.
Hope it gives you a few ideas
When you had the microswitchs off you could have checked them for continuity.
I suppose the first thing is to find out is whether the input side of the microswich is live (in both cases).If there's no live input then I would suspect the mechanism that operates the switch (ie cams/levers) may be worn.
As I understand it the timer has two seperate sides hot water and heating and each side has its own switch so you may have a faulty on/off switch.
Hope it gives you a few ideas
Depending what type of programmer,you could swop the wire from hot water to heating and heating to hot water.If you then switch on the heating which used to be the hot water switch and works,then the programmer got to be faulty.
Thanks for your posts. I have tested the switches and they both work and I have swopped over the microswitches and it makes no difference. I have looked at the lever on the motorised valve and it does not move, either when the water is switched on or the heating. If I put it to the left or the centre then it just stays in that position. I don't know if the power to the boiler goes direct or if it goes via the pump or valve.
If the motorized valve and programmer are okay,then it could be a wiring breakdown in the cable,bad connection,corrosion or loose connection,make sure all the connection are tight.Normally the boiler,motorized valve,pump & room stat power back to the programmer.The programmer could still be malfunction,can you bypass it somehow on the heating side?
Three weeks without heat was a getting a bit much, particularly when we had snow last week. I called a heating engineer and told him what I had found. He suggested that it was the motorised valve. 15 mins looking at it, 30 mins going to get the actuator and 15 mins to fit. £173.67. (motor under £10) I have to work most of the week for that! Oh to be a plumber. Thanks for your help anyway.
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