"no need for a lintel"

[darrelldv]

Newbie first post

I've found so many good tips on this site I had to finally join!

I've recently bought a house and it's the first time I've had to organise trades for so many things. Rewire, studwork, new doorways, demolishing walls, new boiler etc etc

Well we wanted to have a new doorway from the hall through to the garage and after waiting weeks due to 'illness' they started but have only done half the job saying the door was out of stock so they'll finish it in January.

Trouble is, the original job was to put in a lintel, knock blocks out and fit new door. However the builder said the garage wall was not carrying the weight as the beam was hung on a perpendicular joist running along the the hallway, it may even be the beam next to stairs. So they cut the wall top to bottom, put in a liner and fitted "structural timber" (which looks like regular 2x4")above with a piece of 9.5mm plasterboard either side and some of my old dirty insulation inside.
The thing is you can see the lintel for the toilet next door. Why would that have a lintel if it's not supporting anything?
I'll get a clearer shot of the hallway joist today.
For now, I'd appreciate your thoughts View media item 54022 View media item 54021 View media item 54020

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

What do the floor joists sit on then at the ends? (the ends near the staircase? Your post isn't overly clear tbh.

Did he use a sledge hammer to make the opening?

 

[darrelldv]

Here's a photo taken previously that shows the joists in the hallway.

View media item 54027
They drilled it every couple of cm top to bottom. Which may explain the wobbly edge and packers they put in to square the frame, assuming its square.Thanks

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

OK it almost looks like the joists aren't even resting on the wall from that photy?

 

[darrelldv]

They touch but are they resting? That's the question.
Do they stop flexing but carry no weight? Or do they carry weight and if so is a bit of timber stood on a frame held by some screws enough to stop the frame warping or floor flexing and cracking plaster etc etc... don't want to be a worry wart but it's my family home for the next 10+ years..
cheers

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

What are the spans, sizes and centres of the joists?

 

[doitall]

Maybe the pics, but the frame looks all over the place, does it bow in or do I need new glasses.

 

[darrelldv]

Hi Folks,

Joists are 410mm apart. They 45mmx200mm joists.
The joist in the hall ceiling they "hang off" is 75mm wide by 200mm.
Frame is vertical and square having measured it today.

Also, we're fitting a fire door (understandable considering boiler and possible a car in there) plus we're having fire rated board added to the ceiling..

..BUT surely this gap above the door made of 9.5mm plasterboard and 2x4" wood with a wool infill is a compromise in the fire safety between the garage from the house?
Flames rise and they'll tear through this 3ftx1ft empty void in minutes??
So what good would a 30 minute fire door be?
Surely it should be brick above no?

Thanks

View media item 54049 View media item 54050

 

[darrelldv]

Checking up on the fire side of things it appears this sort of job also comes under building control, which no one seemed to mention... forums talk of 100mm step up into the house and other regulations...

Local council says
Building Regulation Approval
Where the conversion work involves structural alterations such as new foundations or masonry to infill the existing garage door opening, the creation of a new opening from the house, or the installation of new plumbing for a bathroom or WC, you will need to seek Building Regulation Approval.

I've started and yet I should have had building consent. I'm guessing this will not be q quick process?

 

[trowlerman]

i would off used a lintel and blockwork myself , if only to match existing , i know its only a garage but how does he plan to make good the blockwork , it looks like a dog has chewed the new opening!!

 

[dhutch]

What has come of this?