No signal to subwoofer?

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Hi all, bought a Yamaha RX-V393RDS. Fairly old now but supposedly a good unit. Works well on all settings and has been clearly looked after.

I bought it so that I could power two main speakers, a centre speaker and now my new sub woofer.

Annoyingly though, it barely receives any signal. I can feel the speaker very very mildly vibrating (and I know it works) but there’s no audible difference. It’s a powered sub and everything is set to maximum on it, although I’ve tried every setting.

Any idea why it’s not receiving a very strong signal? I’ve tried all the settings on the Yamaha amp as well as switching the input location — nothing I do is working. The full manual is online but offers little help.

Don’t want to shell out on another amp in case there’s a deliberate reason why it’s not working!
 
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The 393 predates the inclusion of Dolby Digital and DTS decoding within the receiver. The speaker setup is designed for Dolby ProLogic. It doesn't include the ability to send a signal to the sub that the later DD/DTS equipped receivers have where a crossover frequency is set within the receiver.

The only provision for using a sub is with the 6CH input. This is where the sound is decoded into 5.1 by some external device - a DVD/BD player with a 6CH out would do - and so the sub signal is generated by the source and passed through the 393 to its sub out.

Question: Does your sub have a high-level / speaker-level input as well as a low-level LFE input via RCA?
 
Hmm, page 14 of the manual says it outputs low frequencies from the main and centre channels unless 6 channel discrete signals are connected
How are the inputs connected?
Using the speaker level outputs is certainly another way of getting it working though
 
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Thanks both, that’s some great knowledge — thank you.

I mistakenly thought this unit had a decoder built in, but the diagrams within the guide do seem to allude to there being a separate decoder external to this amp. Having knowledge of old amps but not surround units doesn’t help!

I did change input to the 6CH terminals, but for it to work I had to change the way the speakers were connected to the amp — the result was rubbish, and the sub still didn’t work.

This is the current state of play at the rear (pics attached). The single male plug goes to the powered sub woofer. Input is via the ‘CD’ terminals as the phono input needs to be grounded (never had to do this apart from for turntables).

It’s frustrating as it’s so nearly there. The clarity offered by my centre and main speakers is excellent but the set up lacks the depth in bass.
 

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I’m just looking at that top bank of input terminals (6 in total).

Would I need a 5.1 decoder? I’ve never used one, but I’m guessing my input would be into that, with six wires then going into the “6CH discrete” terminals on the Yamaha?
 
Looks like Lucid’s suggestion is the best way forward then, if your sub has speaker level connections
 
Thanks both, that’s some great knowledge — thank you.

I mistakenly thought this unit had a decoder built in, but the diagrams within the guide do seem to allude to there being a separate decoder external to this amp. Having knowledge of old amps but not surround units doesn’t help!

I did change input to the 6CH terminals, but for it to work I had to change the way the speakers were connected to the amp — the result was rubbish, and the sub still didn’t work.

This is the current state of play at the rear (pics attached). The single male plug goes to the powered sub woofer. Input is via the ‘CD’ terminals as the phono input needs to be grounded (never had to do this apart from for turntables).

It’s frustrating as it’s so nearly there. The clarity offered by my centre and main speakers is excellent but the set up lacks the depth in bass.

The phono input on your 393 is for a turntable. It's set up for a moving magnet cartridge (MM) hence the grounding terminal. Don't put any line level sources through this. They'll be far too powerful for the MM input, plus there's an equalisation curve applied which boosts bass and cuts treble to compensate for the way vinyl is cut with low bass and higher treble. (It's called RIAA Equalisation and it helps prevent the needle mistracking.)

CD, TV/DBS, VCR, DVD/LD and TAPE are all line level inputs and available for your to use.

Your sub isn't going to get a signal unless there's something attached to the subwoofer socket of the 6CH DISCRETE INPUT section. Any cone movement you're feeling is background noise which can come from the receiver, the sub lead, and the powered subwoofer amp when everything is turned up to max.

The only ways you're going to get a signal into the sub is either to use an external 6CH decoder (or a source with 6CH out), or have a sub with Hi-Level inputs which takes its signal from the front left and right channels. There are pros and cons for each.

External decoder: Pros

• basic units are cheap - Start at £20-£25
• will auto-detect and decode DD and DTS
• offer multiple inputs: usually a couple of opticals, a coaxial and a stereo audio

External decoder: Cons

• source switching means getting out of your chair to push a button
• cheaper units don't decode ProLogic II. They make a simulated surround which might not be that effective
• there's no level control for the individual channels

This last point means you need to use the receiver to set-up speaker levels along with the sub controls, so if there's a difference in the sound balance between the way the decoder works and how the receiver handles direct sources decoded by ProLogic then you're stuffed. The channel balance is going to be off.


Subwoofer with High-Level Input: Pros

• doesn't draw any power from the receiver's speaker outputs
• subject to the sub's performance, it greatly enhances the front L&R channel performance
• sub is always running

Subwoofer with High-Level Input: Cons

• you need to find a sub with the feature. Not all have it
• there's no bass enhancement for the surround channels



Changing the amp might seem like a big step, but it's one I think you should at least consider. Here are some pros:

• subwoofer connection issues go away
• updated audio processing: Dolby ProLogic II, DD/DTS, HD-audio from Blu-ray
• updated inputs: HDMI
• updated speaker setup:
1) done for you automatically with a set-up mic and wizard
2) room EQ - the amp/receiver listens not just to the volume from each speaker but also the tone of it as affected by its room position
• new features such as HDMI ARC. This is both audio signal and control of the amp from your TV
1) You switch the TV on, the amp comes on automatically. Same for power off
2) The TV speakers mute automatically
3) You change the volume with the TV remote (or your Sky / Virgin remote) and the amp volume changes
• unless you buy a bottom of the range amp, you're likely to get more amp power which gives you better dynamics
• per-input audio trim to correct for sources being too loud / too quiet relative to each other
• Dolby Digital features such as Night Mode (bass and treble boost when using low volume) and the ability to limit or expand the dynamic range. This gives you control how the amp portrays action and explosions
• (with Yamaha amps and receivers) one-touch preset buttins which remember source and audio decoding modes for up to 4 inputs; Yamaha's Scene Memory feature

There's a Yamaha RX-V673 here for sale complete with box, remote, setup mic from a seller on the Wirral. The price is £100 with no bids and it finishes at 12 midday today (Sun 4th Dec). Everything I have listed above is featured in this amp. Ebay listing; item number 255859729804
 
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Lucid thanks for taking the time to put that together. Really — that’s helped me greatly and puts the situation into perspective.

I’ve been thinking about it this morning, and I think I’m going to go for a new amp. I won’t go for the one you’ve suggested purely because I won’t have time to travel, however having a model to compare to tells me exactly what I’m looking out for in a replacement.

The V393 I have was bought for a fairly cheap price and I’m sure will sell on.

The source setting memory will be very useful, as my set up is purely for playing music from the line out on a laptop, and from CD and vinyl.

I’ll let you know which one I go for on here. Thanks again to you
 
In the end I went for a Yamaha RX-V673.

This appears to offer the features @Lucid said that I would need. It is also a newer amp and having read contemporary reviews on What HiFi and later reviews on forums, it seems fairly well received.

Looking forward to receiving it and getting it set up. Thanks again for all of your help and advice.

https://www.avsforum.com/threads/yamaha-rx-v673-receiver.3185843/

 
EDIT - went for the Yamaha RX-V367.

Still sadly having the same problem :(

I can just about get a weak signal to the subwoofer on some settings, but it’s only barely noticeable if I have the volume set to very (uncomfortably) high.

The subwoofer works fine, so I’m wondering if I need a different active subwoofer altogether, with speaker level inputs. Whatever the amps I’ve bought are doing, they’re not utilising the dedicated subwoofer output effectively. M

The current source of my input audio signal is into the “audio 1” input on the back of the unit, with signal coming from a laptop’s 3.5mm audio out.

Surely it shouldn’t be this complex
 
What's your sub and how do you know the sub is working correctly?

Does your sub have stereo RCA sockets (Red. White), and is your connection to the one marked as Mono?

Pictures and a make & model number would help tremendously.
 
I'm borrowing what I believe is a Klipsch subwoofer (unsure of the exact model until I'm home) but I know it works as it was taken from a working set up my brother has. I think he uses his with one of those little bookshelf amplifiers, so a different setup to mine.

The subwoofer itself has a single RCA input, along with volume and crossover adjusters which are set as per the Yamaha's user guide. There is also the usual polarity (0/180) switch. The other end of the the RCA input goes into the single RCA connection marked 'subwoofer' on the rear of the receiver.
 
Okay then. sub controls. The only setting on the sub controls that might prevent a sub from working is the Auto/ON signal sensing switch. The rest of the dials and switches won't stop the sub working.

Volume is obvious what it does. Put this to the halfway point on the dial.

Phase is about timing the bass pulses from the sub to coincide with what's happening with the main speakers. However, seeing as you have an AV receiver - presumably with a setup mic and a working remote - then the amp will take care of any phase adjustment before the signal gets to the sub. Set the phase control to 0 degrees.

Crossover is to do with blending the sub with the main speakers. Once again though, the setup wizard (YPAO) on the Yam amp will take care of that. All you need do is set the sub's Crossover control to it's highest setting or to the LFE preset of it has it.

If there's an ON/Auto toggle switch, set it to ON.


Short test of the sub and connection lead

- before changing any connections, switch the sub off
- turn the sub volume down
- make sure the Auto/On toggle is set to ON
- connect one end of the sub lead to the LFE/Mono connection (usually the white/left socket, but should be marked for LFE/Mono)
- leave the other end of the sub lead disconnected
- plug in or switch on the sub
* prepare yourself. There's going to be a buzzing noise from the sub in the next step, but it's perfectly safe if you've followed the instructions to this point *
- take hold of the loose end of the sub lead. Place your bare finger on the RCA plug end so that it's touching both the pin and the ring of the plug. You should hear a buzz from the sub. If it's not very loud then turn up the volume a little

If you get a buzz then the sub is working.
If there's no buzz then check the following
- mains power switched on at the wall socket
- power lead correctly inserted
- subwoofer power switch set to ON
- sub signal lead connected to an IN socket marked mono or LFE (If there are In and Out sockets then do not connect to OUT)
Still no buzz?
- swap the RCA lead for a known good one. Doesn't need to be a mono cable for this test. It can be one side of a stereo RCA lead. it'll work just fine
Still no buzz?
- check the small fuse holder that's part of the mains cable socket on the plug. Pull the mains cable out. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to lever open the little door. If you have one, use a multimeter on low resistance or continuity test to make sure that the fuse hasn't blown. You should get the same result with the meter probes at either end of the fuse as with the probe tips touching each other
- repeat the fuse check for any fuse in the 3-pin mains plug

If you have done all these checks correctly then either the power to the ring main that supplies the socket is off, or the sub is broken.

Where the sub test is successful then the next step is the hook-up to the amp. Switch off the power to the sub before making the new connection.

- The subwoofer sockets on the amp are on the lower right quarter of the back plate. They are marked Subwoofer 1 and 2. Connect to the socket marked 1
- Make sure there's a HDMI connection set up from the amp to your TV
- Set the subwoofer's volume control to the mid point on the dial
- Power all on and put the TV on the HDMI input to see the Yamaha onscreen menus
- Yamaha remote > On Screen > Speakers > Manual Setup > Test Tones ON
- then in Manual Setup > Level
you will now be able to hear test tone (pink noise) from each connected speaker and the sub. This will also allow you to set the sub level. Cycle through the speakers until the sub is highlighted. If you get tone here then all is working with the sub and its connection. If not, then there's a problem with the sub out on the 673. Power the sub off, then swap to the Sub 2 output on the 673. Sub back on again and repeat the level test.

Where all is working with the sub, run the YPAO auto set up. The onscreen display should tell you what the crossover frequency is set as and whether the front and centre speaker are set to small or large. Unless you have floorstanding main speakers and a big centre they should come up as small. If not, go ahead and change them to small in the speaker configuration and run YPAO again.

When playing backa source have a look at the amp's decoding mode. For these test, don't use Straight or Pure Direct. Choose Stereo or one of the Dolby or DTS such as DPL II Music or DTS Neo:6 Music. This is simply to ensure that the amp is sending bass signals to the sub. Once you're satisfied that the sub is working then you can play around with the other settings.
 
Thanks again @Lucid for the information on this. Just for clarity, I have the Yamaha RX-V367 (admittedly, I did say the V673 but corrected myself in post #11).

Yes one of the first things I did was to touch one end of the phono/RCA lead while plugged into the powered subwoofer. It hummed as they do so it confirmed to me that it can receive and amplify signals. It wasn't particularly loud, but unsure if that's normal due to the limited range of frequencies it works with.

I've tried every possible adjustment to the settings. The best I could get was with the centre and front speakers set to 'small', with subwoofer obviously 'YES' and everything set to 5ch enhanced (never straight) -- in my mind that should mean the receiver sends the low frequencies out to the sub. The result meant that the speaker under the sub did vibrate as it received signals and I can confirm these weren't ambient/background vibrations. However, there was no audible sound produced with the crossover at 200. Either the signal is very weak or the amp is just not powering very well. Lots of different leads tried.

A test signal produced sound from the front L, centre, front R but then a barely audible whisper from the sub. It makes me wonder if this sub is not compatible with the amplifier if that's possible.

Defeated, I've disconnected it now and am just using the main and centre speakers.

Thanks for all of your help on this. I'll try again in the new year with a new amp, but I'll have to save up.
 

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