#### mikedmc

I could do with some help. The inside of the house is almost complete (by the end of the weekend it should be all finished!!!) so now I return to my plans for the garden. My wife insists and while she is pregnant I'll let her think she's in charge ha!

I've spent the last couple of days reading the decking posts on here and wow isn't there a lot! Seems a simple job but with so many different ways a few pointers specific to my plan would help a lot.

I have tried drawing up a little plan using Windows paint which you can find here: http://www.always24-7.co.uk/diy/deckingplan.jpg

The Orange and Blue is the area to be decked, along the side of the house and around the back. The sizes of the areas are as follows:

A = 11.2m
B = 1.42m
C= 1.85m
D= 8.35m
E= 3.7m
F= 3.3m
G= 4.6m
H= 4.6m

The reason for the 2 different colours is because of the 8.5" step coming down from the house see: http://www.always24-7.co.uk/diy/step.jpg

I was thinking have the decking just below the step covering the entire Orange area, then step down to a lower ground level deck for the blue area (to be used for a large paddling pool).

From what I have read if the decking is to be attached above the dpc then I can't bolt directly to the wall. I feel it is above the dpc but can you tell me for sure from the step pic? If it is above can I drill the deck directly to the wall?

My thinking is to use something like 4x2 for the joists. Drill directly to the wall. At the end of the Orange area use some blocks (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Bricks-and-Blocks/Blocks/icat/bbblock ?) cemented into the ground to level the joists. Then for the lower blue area do the same accept at ground level. This will still leave a step down but if to steep, maybe make up a step with some 2x2 and deck boards.

Sound ok? If that sounds ok then my real problem is ordering the material. Where from and what and how much of it?

- Some kind of weed prevention (read on here of weed matting)?
- Blocks (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Bricks-and-Blocks/Blocks/icat/bbblock)?
- joists (do I go for something like http://www.wickes.co.uk/Deckboards/Deck-Joist/invt/101318 or will something like http://www.wickes.co.uk/Sawn-Treated-Timber/Sawn-Treated-Kiln-Dried-C16/invt/103619 suffice?
- Deck Boards http://www.wickes.co.uk/Deckboards/Deck-Board/invt/543265
- I was thinking of just screwing the joists together, these ok http://www.screwfix.com/prods/39094...ck-of-1000;jsessionid=NKC2TWYTE2ZTUCSTHZPCFFQ ?
- Attaching joists to wall. Some kind of bolts, again help?

I know I seem clueless but I seem ok putting things together when I have everything but never know exactly what to use. Your help appreciated.

Thank you.
Michael.

Can anyone help? I know its not been long but I'm eager to get it ordered.

Any help appreciated. Thank you.

Too much information Mike. Most people won't read that lot let alone follow all the links. People are happy to answer fairly concise questions but you appear to asking for a full service. I haven't read your full post for that reason. Responding in good nature.....

Too much information Mike. Most people won't read that lot let alone follow all the links. People are happy to answer fairly concise questions but you appear to asking for a full service. I haven't read your full post for that reason. Responding in good nature.....

Ty for the advice. It is a problem with me, I never know how much information is needed. I will try again and break it all down. See even my ty got expanded!

Don't get your wood from Wickes, go to a wood yard instead. Wickes will work out twice as expensive and for half the quality.

I have used the deck tite screws and found them to be good.

Hi Mike, first of all go to http://sketchup.google.com/ download that program, which is free by the way and you can then design a model of your house etc and view it in 3D, you can then add your decking project within this model, its a lot better than paint etc. and you can then work out all the materials needed and view it in situ.

You have put in a good lot of info and I have briefly read through it.

You can bolt a faceplate to your house wall allowing for the thickness of the decking etc that will sit on the top of the joists to just clear your doorway BUT usually in an ideal situation you would fit this 150mm below the damp proof course, however, you can fit it at damp proof level providing you leave a 10 - 12mm gap between the faceplate and the brick work to allow the water to run off ok and not stay on the wood soaking into the brickwork, which will cause damp. the faceplate is a treated 2 x 6 or 47mm by 150mm board.

You can attach this to the wall with anchor bolts evenly spaced along the plate, to this you can either use stainless steel coach bolts to attach your joists or use appropriate joist hangers, if using the coach bolts then you obviously will have to build the framework up before attaching it to the wall, the 10 - 12mm gap can be created by using stainless steel washers of the correct diameter as to fit the anchor bolts or I sometimes use copper pipe cut to the right length with a stainless steel washer at each end. The joists must be spaced 400mm on center, to ensure this is done cut your noggins to 350mm, that way you should have all your joists spaced correctly.

Get your timber from a good wood supplier and not one of the DIY stores.
The timber will be a whole lot better quality and you may even get a better deal if you require a larger amount of timber.

Don't get your wood from Wickes, go to a wood yard instead. Wickes will work out twice as expensive and for half the quality.

I have used the deck tite screws and found them to be good.

That's where I fall down, not knowing what I need and when I do what is good quality? Are "wood yards" all independents or are we talking about builders merchants like Travis Perkins, Builders Centre etc.? Any recommended wood yards that deliver S.E. London area?

Thank you.

Woodster66 Thank you.

Excellent program and free. Downloaded and installed last night but only got a little play with it - I was given some much needed freedom, could be the last before my wife gives birth to our son - so decided to go out for a drink. Will try and get it working today and do the plans again.

So anchor bolts and stainless steel washers?
Anchor Bolts
Washers

I was thinking of making up the frame before hand & then bolting to the wall but maybe the joist hangers would be easier. I know this sounds stupid and seriously shows my lack of knowledge but if these are coach bolts how do I screw the frame together with these?

I know you mentioned not to buy from the diy sheds but so I know what I should be getting I'll be using them for the links. So is this what I need for the Joists. If I call a timber yard would I be asking decking joists 150x47mmxlength or asking for treated timber 150x47xlength (does it even make a difference!).

Thank you.[/url]

I said Coach Screws, not Bolts lol

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/43312/Bolts/Coach-Screws/Exterior-Coach-Screws-M10-x-130mm-Pack-of-10

or

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24254...crews-A2-Stainless-Steel-M10-x-120-Pack-of-10

drill through the face plate and into the ends of the joists then bolt them through with those COACH SCREWS you want two in each end of the joists!
When you ring the timber yard you will ask for tanalised joists either in 6x2 inch or 150 x 47mm in whatever lengths you want, as timber yards will stock a number of lengths unlik the diy sheds so you can usually buy from 2.4m 3.0m, 3.2m lengths right up to ususally 4.8m lengths and some will even provide longer lengths if you require them.
Work out what lengths you need for your project and if you need say 2.4m lengths then usually it would be slightly cheaper to buy the 4.8m lengths and then cut them in half
The washers and anchor bolts that you provided the links for are fine

Don't get your wood from Wickes, go to a wood yard instead. Wickes will work out twice as expensive and for half the quality.

I have used the deck tite screws and found them to be good.

That's where I fall down, not knowing what I need and when I do what is good quality? Are "wood yards" all independents or are we talking about builders merchants like Travis Perkins, Builders Centre etc.? Any recommended wood yards that deliver S.E. London area?

Thank you.

Hi

I've used these people. I don't know if they would deliver to your area, but it might be worth a call.

http://www.beaumontforest.co.uk/

Kind regards

Mark

Hi

I've used these people. I don't know if they would deliver to your area, but it might be worth a call.

http://www.beaumontforest.co.uk/

Kind regards

Mark

Thank you. Will see what they can do once I've worked out exactly what I need.

I said Coach Screws, not Bolts lol

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/43312/Bolts/Coach-Screws/Exterior-Coach-Screws-M10-x-130mm-Pack-of-10

or

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/24254...crews-A2-Stainless-Steel-M10-x-120-Pack-of-10

drill through the face plate and into the ends of the joists then bolt them through with those COACH SCREWS you want two in each end of the joists!
When you ring the timber yard you will ask for tanalised joists either in 6x2 inch or 150 x 47mm in whatever lengths you want, as timber yards will stock a number of lengths unlik the diy sheds so you can usually buy from 2.4m 3.0m, 3.2m lengths right up to ususally 4.8m lengths and some will even provide longer lengths if you require them.
Work out what lengths you need for your project and if you need say 2.4m lengths then usually it would be slightly cheaper to buy the 4.8m lengths and then cut them in half
The washers and anchor bolts that you provided the links for are fine

I knew that, I was just testing that you knew what you were talking about - do you believe that? .

Are the widths of decking boards always the same as that would make working out roughly what I require easier?

The lower part of my decking, I was hoping to have this more ground level (the light blue area on my plan http://www.always24-7.co.uk/diy/deckingplan.jpg - haven't figured out how to use sketchup yet). I was thinking I would go with just 2"x2" for the frame, I am right in assuming this is not a good idea and that I should be digging the ground out and using 6"x2" for the frame?

Again thank you for the help, much appreciated.

yes they are machined to teh same widths.

2 x 2 will not be strong enough. if you are trying to get the deck as low as possible then you can use 4 x 2, but it will need more supports than 6 x 2

Thank you.

The lower section is to have one of those 12' round pools on. I originally was thinking of concreting the area but thought it would look ugly and it would be much nicer to have it match the decking but I wanted it lower, ground level.

What is the best solution. Dig out the area and use 6"x2" or would concreting the area (depth?) and then could I use a 2"x2" frame? Or another solution?

yes they are machined to teh same widths.

2 x 2 will not be strong enough. if you are trying to get the deck as low as possible then you can use 4 x 2, but it will need more supports than 6 x 2

Are these supports set upon the hard ground (if available?.

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