Oak uprights to floor decayed at base

[Paul1919]

The terrace to my house is supported by nine oak uprights approx 10" square and the same across the tops. It's about ten metres span. The roof is a sloping slate tile roof with t&g pine under.
Between the oak uprights are large sliding anodised aluminium Windows. Frames of which are screwed to the oak. The floor is tiled over concrete.

The oak uprights have painted ply facings to the exterior, which have decayed at the bases. On closer examination I can see now that the oak uprights have decayed also at the base. And clearly shouldn't have been put straight into a tiled floor. Rainwater over the last *** years has done its bit.

We are where we are. And now I'm about to start repairing the damage. But how would I begin ?
I know that the oaks should have been fitted at the base with metal 'legs' so that they don't touch the ground. I've found a German company who make them. Then I can replace the ply facings and waterproof.

Short of completely dismantling the terrace, and remove the big heavy glass sliding doors, has anyone any useful ideas to offer in dealing with repairing the uprights.
And does anyone know of a uk supplier of the legs.
Many thanks.

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

Have you drilled into a leg from the outside to see how deep the rot is. It can't be that bad or the terrace would have moved. Oak is funny stuff its very acidic and rots metal fixings. The obvious thing to do is to put a couple of BIG clamps on a leg, jack them up to take the weight is of the leg, cut the rotten bit out and either put a new bit of oak in or better, a bit of stainless steel box section with a top and bottom plate welded on, screw the box to the tiles and to the underneath of the leg. It would be very sexy to get some extra top and bottom plates made in different thicknesses, use them as shims when you get to the stage of having to hammer the last one in, you can unjack the leg.
Frank

 

[bernardgreen]

A sheet of lead between the oak and the floor will suffice.

This one we did in 1980 and still no signs of decay in any of the twenty Douglas Fir posts, The lead was slightly over size on this post.

Walter Segal method of building

 

[Paul1919]

Not tried drilling into it yet. Weather has been non stop rain for weeks.
I may be able to break away the concrete underneath one post from outside. It'll be tedious work but I could then be able to see more of what's required.
Might be able to pack it out with more concrete.
I can fit lead plates under them. What's the theory behind that ?

I know for example that copper prevents moss growing on roofs.

 

[bernardgreen]

Timber rots when air and water can get to the fibres. The most vulnerable point is the end grain where the timber has been cut. This is because timber has a natural mechanism for moving water along the grain to feed the growing tree. This mechanism still functions after the tree has been cut down and turned into building material.

The weight of the building causes the the lead to be pressed into the end grain of the timber making a water tight seal. and probably also air tight. Hence no moisture can get into the timber other than on the exposed surfaces. The exposed surfaces were treated with Sadolin to prevent water being absorbed.

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

Providing the timber is still structurally OK. It could be interesting to use this stuff :- http://www.safeguardeurope.com/products/probor_50
Boron paste?
Frank

 

[Paul1919]

Thank you, that sounds interesting. I'll give it a try.

Paul