oak worktop - sanding leaves light patches / Oil Advice

[snadge]

Our joiner has just finished installing our worktops - there are some raises on all the joins because he says theyre 'bowed' - he said to sand them down which works great but weve noticed that it leaves lighter patches which stick out like a sore thumb....

what do you do in this situation? is there a way of staining just the patches to get them back to what it was?

EDIT: ive put on some of THIS oil - its milky but seems to darken it a little only time will tell as ive just applied it - noticed on a test piece that it was rough to the touch afterwards?


thanks

 

[ivixor]

Same thing here. I've put a coat of worktop oil on but can still see a slightly lighter patch. Will do another coat or two, and it should sort it.

You have oiled it after sanding, right?

 

[snadge]

Same thing here. I've put a coat of worktop oil on but can still see a slightly lighter patch. Will do another coat or two, and it should sort it.

You have oiled it after sanding, right?

we havent done anything? the worktops have JUST been installed, she went at it like a mad women at the join with 40 grit sandpaper next too where hob is being fitted tomorrow...we are looking for a solution before we put any oil on...

doesnt matter how many you put on you will always see lighter patch unless you even it out by staining or adding oil to patch only - before oiling... i dunno thats just a guess

 

[ivixor]

The oil I have isn't clear, so it does darken the wood colour somewhat. Worked for me where I sanded it.

Get some finer paper to finish it off too, 180,240 etc.

 

[snadge]

The oil I have isn't clear, so it does darken the wood colour somewhat. Worked for me where I sanded it.

Get some finer paper to finish it off too, 180,240 etc.

we have some oil we got at ikea but its more like a creamy milk??? ive sanded them down with 100 grit (all i have) and applied some of this stuff to the patches - says tot leave on 15 mins..then soak up and leave to dry.. re-coatable 2-4 hours , dry 12-24 hours... - it certainly dosnt have an oily texture... milky? (its white)

this stuff: http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/50070378

any good?

 

[joinerjohn]

I trust your joiner has given the worktop a few coats of this oil underneath, before fitting the worktops?

 

[snadge]

I trust your joiner has given the worktop a few coats of this oil underneath, before fitting the worktops?

the worktops have not been oiled which I know is not what your supposed to do but we didnt realise until this morning just before he came - i dont mind getting under to do it - all im worried about are these patches and using the right/best oil

we need some advice to get rid of these patches and use the best advice to oiling it... that oil above is just like milk... on test pieces it felt rough after applying it like it needed sanding again.... I hope we havent got too sand the whole lot to get it even...

 

[squowse]

a lot of "oil"s are not pure oil but have driers and hardeners like polyurethane added. sounds like yours has a lot of that.
tung and linseed are the only pure oils that are commonly used for this job but will need a lot of coats and maintenance. a green scouring pad is ideal for taking off roughness after oils have dried.

 

[joinerjohn]

It's quite normal for the timber to feel a bit rough after the first few coats of oil. The oil will raise the grain of the wood. What you need to do is get some 240-360 grit sandpaper and give it a very light rub over (after the oil has dried (12-24 hrs).
When I say a very light rub over, I mean quite literally just a once over with little pressure on the sandpaper.
The oil you are using is normally a milky colour. Not all oils are clear. The Linseed oil in the stuff you are using will darken the worktop, and harden as it dries out.

Your advised to oil the underneath of the worktop before installation, but afterwards won't make too much difference (just awkward really).

PS, don't forget to clean out the rag you used to put the oil on with afterwards. It can spontaneously combust if kept crumpled up with oil in it !!!!!

 

[snadge]

thanks - the bit ive put on patches has worked quite a bit although the oil itself sort of stick out so just have to play with it , sand, oil, sand, oil until its right THEN oil the whole thing a few times and go over with 240-360 grit..

does this sound about right?

thanks for all your help everyone...

 

[snadge]

the stuff ive been using on patches has only worked so far and you can still see them enough to notice... just not as bad

...is there anything esle i can do before we start to treat it?

thanks

 

[joinerjohn]

If you gave the whole worktop a light sanding with a random orbit sander and say 180 grit. Then at least all of the timber would look the same colour to start with. Using a random orbit sander, wouldn't take very long. Probably less than half an hour. Vacuum over it to remove the dust then oil.
You'll need a few coats of oil though. As before with a very very light sanding between coats of oil. Don't forget to go over with a cloth after sanding (to remove dust). Might sound like quite a bit of work, but well worth it.

 

[snadge]

If you gave the whole worktop a light sanding with a random orbit sander and say 180 grit. Then at least all of the timber would look the same colour to start with. Using a random orbit sander, wouldn't take very long. Probably less than half an hour. Vacuum over it to remove the dust then oil.
You'll need a few coats of oil though. As before with a very very light sanding between coats of oil. Don't forget to go over with a cloth after sanding (to remove dust). Might sound like quite a bit of work, but well worth it.

thanks

i dont have an orbital sander... just a reg one... that'll do yeah?

thnx