Oil fired boiler won't light - SOLVED!

Did you have your boiler serviced at all before this one?

Also did the engineer replace the nozzle?
 
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Get alarge container, say a litre, undo the hex nut at bottom of pump that you already have taken out and put back. Hold your container under the hole and tilt it up to catch discherge. Switch on boiler and let a good flow of oil come out. When it gets a lot, press the reset button and replace the screw. release the reset button and see if it then lights.
If you get no fuel out, or very little, you need to follow the oil pipe back to the tank and make sure it is clear.
 
Thanks but there's no button labelled "reset". Just the red button that glows after the ignition fails.

It hasn't been serviced previously. Bear in mind it gets used only for 3 months during winter and it's only been installed for 2 years.

I don't know what the "service" comprised. I don't even know the Greek word for "service".
 
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Sorted! :D

Looks like the plumber's apprentice didn't understand the meaning of "service", either. It wasn't diesel oil coming out but water!

I had to remove the filter bowl and let the tank drain several litres of crap into a tray before it started to clear. The filter bowl was full of "mayonnaise".

Anyway, I had to drain and bleed it three times altogether.
BTW the female 3mm hex screw is the one to use as it's higher up than the hex head bolt and gets all the air out.

THANK YOU ALL for your assistance!

Now I have to figure out how the water got inside the tank. :confused:
 
BTW the female 3mm hex screw is the one to use as it's higher up than the hex head bolt and gets all the air out.

No it's not. That's where you measure vacuum. The bleed point is where the pressure gauge port is, as others have advised. Any port you undo on the pump will let out oil.
 
According to the manual (see link) and my own experience, final bleeding (air not oil) from the female hex screw is more effective (and it was easier for me to lock a hex key into it than fiddle with my open-ended spanner).

ymmv
 
According to the manual (see link) and my own experience, final bleeding (air not oil) from the female hex screw is more effective (and it was easier for me to lock a hex key into it than fiddle with my open-ended spanner).

ymmv

Fwiw I have worked on many of those burners and every time have bled the pump from the gauge port at the front not the side.

But hey, it woked for you and your happy.
 
BTW the female 3mm hex screw is the one to use as it's higher up than the hex head bolt and gets all the air out.

No it's not. That's where you measure vacuum. The bleed point is where the pressure gauge port is, as others have advised. Any port you undo on the pump will let out oil.

To be fair to the op yes it is, It is also where the manufacturer recomends priming the pump
 

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