Oil or Water based paint?

[Bucks]

We have all the woodwork in our whole house to paint with a white satin or gloss paint.
At present it is a mixture of new wood, old antique pine varnish, Wickes prefinished panel doors, some bare wooden doors, also some oil based satin & gloss that we started painting a few months ago.

The Dulux retail non drip gloss that we put on a few months ago has already gone yellow & be-sounds of it with the new 2010 VOC regulations is the yellowing of any new paint we buy going to be even worse.
I was thinking of changing over to the Dulux trade Satinwood or the water based such as the Dulux Trade Diamond Glaze satinwood, but what I have heard on the net it is impossible to get a good finish, i would be dreading painting the doors with it.

What I am wanting is a first class job that wont need to be repainted every few years.

Sorry for the essay, but I just cant decide which is the best route to go, the more I look into it the more complicated it is, is there such a thing as a perfect paint out there or nowadays is it picking the best of a bad bunch, some ways I wish I had stuck with the antique pine.

Sorry again for the long winded post,
PLEASE HELP

 

[Oldrope]

I would go , oil based under and top coats with a nice high voc content..Then try extra hard with my re cycling waste in an effort to compensate for my massive pollution of our atmosphere. However, I bet my doors are as smooth as glass and stay white longer.Therfore saving on an earlier repaint, and the painters chugging up to yours in there electric white van.

 

[Robbie uk]

I personally would always use Oil based Dulux satinwood. Gives a great finish and doesnt need an undercoat on previously painted wood. Stained wood etc still needs prepping in the normal way.

 

[opps]

As you are aware all of the new oil based finishes will yellow faster than previously.

I normally recommend off whites to my clients for this reason, eg cotton white.

IMHO waterbased finishes are harder to get a decent finish, if you use them then mix with Owatrol or if you cant get any, your chemist can get you propylene glycol.

 

[Bucks]

Thanks for the info guys,
I am leaning towards the waterbased Dulux Trade Diamond Satinwood, with the Purdy brushes & some Floetol & just hope it goes OK, I'm sure the skirting's & frames etc will be fine, its the doors I'm a bit worried about.

 

[opps]

Hi- I mentioned owatrol but meant to say floetrol.

The doors will be easy.

Do the inset panels first, any order. Wipe the excess from the rials and styles with a damp Jay cloth.

Leave for a while then paint the styles and rails, trying to minimise the amount that goes onto the panels.

I prefer to work my way down the door from top to bottom. Doing about 10 inches each side so that I can maintain a wet edge and still have straight tramlines.

Don't forget to mist the brushes with a fine spray of water otherwise you will have dried paint on them.

Try to minimise airflow (whilst painting) given then hot weather.

 

[Bucks]

Thanks for the tips Opps, much appreciated.
The painting will be an ongoing project, so we can hopefully avoid the painting when it is so hot, realistically a lot of it will be done over the winter.

 

[Bucks]

Hi- I mentioned owatrol but meant to say floetrol.

I knew what you meant

 

[Bucks]

Thanks for the info guys,
I am leaning towards the waterbased Dulux Trade Diamond Satinwood, with the Purdy brushes & some Floetol & just hope it goes OK, I'm sure the skirting's & frames etc will be fine, its the doors I'm a bit worried about.

We went for the Dulux Trade Diamond Satinwood in the end.
I am very pleased with the way it has gone up to now on the first room, haven't had to use the Floetrol yet, but haven't painted any doors yet either.
Just hope that it is as tough & hardwearing as it is supposed to be.

 

[Bucks]

Just purchased one of the Earlex HV5000 HVLP sprayers to have a go spraying the doors (after some practice first of course, as I have never done any spraying before)
Any advice/recomendations on getting the best results ?