old iron gas pipe - removal solutions?

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evening all

we're getting a new kitchen fitted in our 50s semi, but behind the electric oven is an old iron gas pipe, which is sealed off but has a bayonet hose connector on the end.

however, it's obstructing our new oven going in (the fitters didn't check clearance of the new oven, and all surfaces etc have already been cut into position.

we had a CORGI bloke round - the pipe can't be threaded, he needs to dig down into the concrete floor untill he finds an elbow or connector.

I've got a couple of questions, and wondered if you could help:

- is there likely to be a threaded elbow under the floor? we've got nighmare visions of him digging all the way back to the metre, finding that it's just one solid length of pipe

- does the digging work have to be by a CORGI at corgi prices? surely if someone else exposes the pipe he can do his job quicker

We would cap off at the metre, but there's another gase supply coming from the floor 2 feed away (15mm copper pipe) which feeds the hob.

Note, the old pipe would have been for an oil boiler or perhaps gas wand for a coke oven (so I'm told...)

cheers

Ian
 
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Well! bending a steel pipe would be near immpossible and not even worth considering. If its vertical and changes to horzontal, the installers would have used a 'elbow' or a 'bend' & 'couplings'. ( all threaded ready)

I agree someone will have to dig down, but I can't see why it has to be the CORGI bloke.

Have you got proof the 15mm copper pipe is a branch off the steel pipe, cause I'm wondering how it was connected.
Can't visulise how or what type of fitting could be introduced into a existing steel pipe below ground
It would make a big difference if these two pipes were not related
 
You have not been consistant!

You say the pipe is sealed off and then you say it has a bayonet connector.

Has it been checked to see if its live with gas?

Anyone can dig down. Its probably connected to a horizontal pipe within 200 mm of the surface.

With a hole about 150 mm square an RGI could probably fit a plug to replace the vertical pipe.

Tony
 
thanks for the replies

I see my mistake - it's not sealed off as such, but the bayonet connector has a big nut through the back of it which effectively shuts off the supply.

but it could be reactivated again easily, so in that sense it is not sealed.

I'm also trying to work out the gas routes in and under the house.

Close by the meter there is a single pipe going into the ground - this is capped off, and therefore redundant - from some earlier layout no doubt but pretty impossible to trace.

the meter has a newer 2" pipe going into the concrete floor, but then also a 22mm pipe tee'd off which goes up under the landing floor towards the kitchen...

I suspect this is the gas hob supply, but can't rule out it doesn't also feed the boiler.

If I could confirm this, then tacking the problem at the meter is the best solution.

but thanks for confirming about joints and bends etc.

Ian
 
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Are you sure the old iron gas pipe is still connected to the gas? If you push your finger up into the bayopnet connector and move the internal plug against the spring, a pfft of gas would come out. Careful you don't ingnite it, do have windows open etc.

You could also try a cheap resistance meter between the pipes. If they aren't connetced, there's a good chance they aren't joined anywhere!
 
Dig down it wont be that deep usually no more than 6 inches but it will be 50/50 wether its on an elbow or a bend.
But if your unlucky and get a bend its just a case of digging a big enough hole around it to cut and get stocks and dies onto it when he says it cant be threaded he means he does not have the kit.
Could it not be cut so its only couple of inches high and under the base of your units
 
cheers for that

the plumber would have to hire a big enough threading tool, but because the pipe is right in the corner he reckons it couldn't be done anyway as there wasn't space.

it is still live with gas unfortunately.

Ian
 
If the meter is under the stairs, dont forget to move all the "stuff" from around it,

also check that the ECV (the isolating valve- the bit that turns off the gas, ) is actually free to turn and not stuck solid, before doing any digging out around the iron pipe. (a, just in case, emoticon)

Tim
 

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