Old radiator pipes not warming up

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Went to a property where they had a radiator removed a few years ago. The isolation valves + thermostatic valve are still on the pipes and have been shut. However the pipes leading upto the valves are cold, even when the radiators are turned on. I've followed the pipes all the way upto the ceiling where they remain cold. The other rads in the house get warm.

Suggest you retrain in knitting or something even less technical if u need help with this :eek:

have you tried knitting? its therapeutic ...
 
Went to a property Does anyone have any idea why these pipes are not getting hot? Could they be cut and capped under the floorboards upstairs?

They want a new radiator fitted where the old one was removed, but i can;t figure out why the pipes are not getting warm.
:eek: We are all allowed a Gonzo Moment when we`re learning - One of mine was not locating a hidden air vent - despite the householder saying previous bods had been in the area in question :oops: BUT FFS 2 capped ( rad valved) pipes and no flow between them :mrgreen:
 
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Went to a property Does anyone have any idea why these pipes are not getting hot? Could they be cut and capped under the floorboards upstairs?

They want a new radiator fitted where the old one was removed, but i can;t figure out why the pipes are not getting warm.
:eek: We are all allowed a Gonzo Moment when we`re learning - One of mine was not locating a hidden air vent - despite the householder saying previous bods had been in the area in question :oops: BUT FFS 2 capped ( rad valved) pipes and no flow between them :mrgreen:

connected the two caps with some pipes, however their is still no flow and no hot water getting to the pipes. Neither flow or return pipe heats up.

I am still in the very early learning stages so not too fussed about missing the obvious signs on certain faults.
 
What have you guys got against push fit fittings? Man your a touchy bunch :LOL:

Saying that i prefer soldered fittings on in cases where they may be tension on joints, compression :)
 
connected the two caps with some pipes, however their is still no flow and no hot water getting to the pipes. Neither flow or return pipe heats up.
Ah, Naz, that's a bit different.

I presume everyone thought that you were puzzled that completely isolated rad connections didn't get hot, which of course they won't.

What happens if, bucket strategically placed, you open each valve in turn? Does water flow out of both?

C.
 
connected the two caps with some pipes, however their is still no flow and no hot water getting to the pipes. Neither flow or return pipe heats up.
Ah, Naz, that's a bit different.

C.
That`s a LOT different - and similar to a poster who wanted to find which was the flow - but wouldn`t spend £15 on some pushfit pipe and fittings for a temporary loop :LOL: AND they accused me of Taking the P. :mrgreen: Nadz - try pushing the pin under the TRV head - don`t pull it out ;) Then shut all the rads leaving just your temporary loop open ..
 
connected the two caps with some pipes, however their is still no flow and no hot water getting to the pipes. Neither flow or return pipe heats up.
Ah, Naz, that's a bit different.

C.
That`s a LOT different - and similar to a poster who wanted to find which was the flow - but wouldn`t spend £15 on some pushfit pipe and fittings for a temporary loop :LOL: AND they accused me of Taking the P. :mrgreen: Nadz - try pushing the pin under the TRV head - don`t pull it out ;) Then shut all the rads leaving just your temporary loop open ..

thanks for the advice guys, will give this a go later

Naz
 
Aha! ;)

Nige's point is an obvious one - which I missed :oops:

TRVs that haven't seen any use for a while tend to stick shut, and removing the head and wiggling the brass pin up and down usually frees things up. It should spring up vigorously when pushed down to its fullest extent.

I've seen engineers spray a little WD40 onto said pin before working it up and down, if the sticky TRV doesn't respond to movement of the pin alone.
 

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