Operation of a motobike lift table.

[King Billy]

For background see the similar headed posts in Builder's forum:

Disabled access to Holiday Home abroad​

I've finally taken delivery of my motorbike lift table. It's electric and manual.
I want to prevent unauthorised use and theft. I can prevent theft, when it's in the closed position because access to any fixing bolts is prevented.
I want to prevent unauthorised use, and lifting of the table, to prevent access to the fixing bolts.

I've ordered some panel mounted and cable mounted plugs and sockets from RS Components, so that I can detach the mains cable and the operating cable. I'll remember to mount the socket on the live side of the plug/socket connection. The two pairs are of different types to avoid confusion or incorrect connection.
Unfortunately the existing electric operation is foot pedal operated, To raise the table, one presses one pedal which turns a rod, which moves a lever to close a microswitch, or not so micro, as it happens.
To lower the table one presses a different foot pedal which is totally manual, and turns the release valve on the body of the jack.

I have ordered a three wire C20 type plug and socket for the control. It only needs two wires.
But I'm having difficulty finding a simple 'press for on', 'release for off' cable mounted control, rather like a bell push, but hand-held.
Obviously it needs to be mains voltage, for about 10 amps (initial start-up) of the ¼ horsepower motor.
I've seen radio controlled hand-held devices but they're all low voltage fed, and I'm unfamiliar with such equipment.
So I've ordered a hand-held enclosure, from RS Components ( Rose 2921 Yellow Polyamide Handheld Enclosure, 85 x 85 x 221mm) in which I'll mount a simple one way switch - on to raise manually, switch off at the correct height. The motor would keep running when the lift is at maximum height, without any apparent harm. There are safety locks to prevent any accidental lowering.

I'll remove the manual operating pedals in such a way that I can replace them in the event of necessity.


In hindsight, and in a slightly different scenario (ownership of the frontage) I would have ordered the in-ground model, as used in motorbike dealers.
It would have been easier to make it theft-proof, and to control. However I don't know if there's any manual operation to lift the table with the in-ground version.
It would certainly have been a cleaner, tidier provision. As it stands, if it's not needed in the long-term I can easily remove it with little visible evidence of its existence.

Any advice or comments gratefully received.

 

[Ragnar_AT]

Can’t you simply connect the mains feed via a key switch?

 

[King Billy]

Can’t you simply connect the mains feed via a key switch?

I didn't know there was such a thing.
I didn't see anything resembling a key operated switch on the RS Components website.
But thank you, I'll look into it.


Although I was hoping that if possible my Father would be able to operate, at least the lifting process, unaided. The assent with a hand-held control would enable that, assuming the bifold doors were open.
The descent would require assistance at the moment.
He values his independence, and if I were in his shoes I suspect I'd behave the same.
This is where the in-ground version would have been better because it would have been an electric control for both up and down. That would have made it totally user self-operated.

 

[ebee]

Would it be any use for me to suggest that you (or a friend in the know how to do safely) put a mains relay/contactor on it and have it operated via a Extra Low Voltage wire and switch arrangement with a length(s) of cable and switches to suit your requirements therefore a voltage such as 12 volts etc would be involved to control a switch or three of your choice - you can even add a radio type switch and carry a push button or key fob, there are a few possibilities that might suit you providing it is done by someone with sufficient knowledge and competance to undertake it safely and for it to be operated safely.
Just a thought!

 

[Old Salt]

Something like this may work, ignore the words, not sure why they appeared.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[King Billy]

Would it be any use for me to suggest that you (or a friend in the know how to do safely) put a mains relay/contactor on it and have it operated via a Extra Low Voltage wire and switch arrangement with a length(s) of cable and switches to suit your requirements therefore a voltage such as 12 volts etc would be involved to control a switch or three of your choice - you can even add a radio type switch and carry a push button or key fob, there are a few possibilities that might suit you providing it is done by someone with sufficient knowledge and competance to undertake it safely and for it to be operated safely.
Just a thought!

Thanks, I did give that idea some thought, but I'm not sufficiently conversant with installing such equipment, and bearing in mind that this is an installation abroad, I don't know of anyone skilled to do the work. That would mean employing a local skilled craftsperson, with all the costs involved.

 

[King Billy]

Something like this may work, ignore the words, not sure why they appeared.

Pardon our interruption...

I looked up the idea of key switches in the RS Components catalogue for UK, and there is one that would do the job, bearing in mind the requirement for a 10 amp rating (start up current for ¼ horse power motor). The majority are rated at just 5 amps, but a 600v 10 amp key operated switch is available.
It would be a tidier installation tham removable cables. In fact with it and the control mounted on a stalk, at about waist height, and using the in-ground version, the lift could have been self-operated for both lift and descent. (Hindsight!!!)
It would need some form of cable retracting mechanism to cope with the spare cable on the descent.
I see there are low current versions on the market. I don't know what harm running 3.5 amps (normal running current for ¼ horse power motor) for about 15 seconds, would do. I do know the coils can get hot and become a fire hazard after running some current for a while.

At this rate I'll have designed a self-operated disabled wheelchair lift to overcome several steps. It was supposed to be a temporary trial period.

I did ask the manufacturer if they could modify it for me, but they wanted something like a minimum order of 50 units.

 

[King Billy]

, ignore the words, not sure why they appeared.

Pardon our interruption...

When you create a link, you can give it the description of your choice.
Like this:
Link to Retractable Cables website
I don't know if it's possible to edit a link.
I'm about to find out.

Yes you can. Edit your post, highlight the link in that post and choose edit the link.

Then click on update.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I didn't know there was such a thing.
I didn't see anything resembling a key operated switch on the RS Components website.

Deleted!

 

[Tigercubrider]

Look for something like this?
You would get better quality from R/S/CPC
This would allow you to power it from a 13A socket in the house (if 13A is ok) and switch it off when nobody is in residence but when someone’s there, leave it on (and down) then use the remote to switch on the power remotely and go off on a shopping trip. When you come back, use the remote to restore power.

You might find a 240 v winch control gives you a handy up/down package. https://www.liftinggear-shop.com/remote-control-230-volt

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Control-Switches-Security-Barriers/dp/B07CTL3TG6

 

[mattylad]

You could use a keyswitch that turns on/off a 16A double pole relay, that way the keyswitch can be as low as 1A.

 

[King Billy]

Look for something like this?
You would get better quality from R/S/CPC
This would allow you to power it from a 13A socket in the house (if 13A is ok) and switch it off when nobody is in residence but when someone’s there, leave it on (and down) then use the remote to switch on the power remotely and go off on a shopping trip. When you come back, use the remote to restore power.

You might find a 240 v winch control gives you a handy up/down package. https://www.liftinggear-shop.com/remote-control-230-volt

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Control-Switches-Security-Barriers/dp/B07CTL3TG6

That Amazon thingy looks exactly the type of thing I've been looking for. It would be far superior than the wired controller.
As it's got the relay inside the box, I'm assuming that the live and neutral has to be fed to the box to power the relay.
I was initially thinking of only switching the live side, rather than a double pole relay.

But I can easily run a neutral to the supply side of the box to power the relay.

I assume the hand-held controller is fed by battery?

Thanks very much for the link to what I wanted.

 

[King Billy]

You could use a keyswitch that turns on/off a 16A double pole relay, that way the keyswitch can be as low as 1A.

Yes I found one ky switch that would do the job.
I wanted to avoid installing relays because I'm not familiar with the feeding of low voltages to the controller or relay. I understand fully the use of transformers, but I didn't want the hassle of installing a transformer to feed the relay and wired controller.
The built in radio and relay as shown by Tigercubrider will do the job, and a decent price.

 

[Ragnar_AT]

There are plenty of 230 V relays, no need for (extra) low voltage. L to key switch, from key switch to A1 terminal of the relay, neutral to A2.

 

[ebee]

True, but a SELV transformer could operate a 12V relay and run on any cable (almost) but bellwire or BT/Alarm cable best avoided.