Our plumber is depressed and suicidal!

To check for leaks more easily, has your guy tried with the expansion vessel removed?

The test needs to be done with the system cold, and boiler off. Remove the connection to the expansion vessel, and blank it off. Then CAREFULLY increase the pressure the system to 1/2 bar. It will drop quickly if there is a leak. If this is ok try at 1 and 1.5 bar to see if anything changes.

I have the feeling that if the chloride content of the water is high this MAY be associated with the use of lead free solder on the joints (I hope I'm wrong and leaded solder was used) The flux gets baked and is very difficult to remove.

Sorry this doesn't give an instant cure.
 
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Many thanks Oilman........ I tactfully suggested my heating engineer might like to take a look at all the suggestions I have received on this site for inspiration. He was not offended and is still speaking to us!
He seems happy there's not a leak. Tested as you suggested. Fitted an additional auto air vent and upped the pressure on the expansion tank and system in general. Due to the kind weather it has not been tested to the full until recently.

Alas, the air in the system noises have started again. Some rads either slow to heat or cold at top. Thought we would ride the storm and not rush to the phone straight away in case the AAV shifted it. Got worse and then today it switched on this afternoon and almost shook the house. Dreadful shaking, banging pipes, gurgling running water noises (loud) coming down in airing cupboard and banging noises in the loft (where the boiler is) - although the noises near the boiler were not the banging sounds we got some time back, due to some kind of blockage. I have switched it all off and my feet are now frozen.

I then (5 mins later) ran the cold tap to top up a bath I'd run earlier (using only hot water) and the water was a horrible brown colour and remains so. Left a sediment in the bath also.Is this because the pipes have been shaken so much or is there another explanation? I shall end up in the 'funny farm' soon if this is not solved. Perhaps my house is possessed??
 
Thanks Kev
Pressure remains fine at 2 when heating on and about 1.5 when cold. It has dropped a bit since our engineer put the extra air vent in and upped the pressure on the expansion tank. He left it at 2 when cold and 2.5 when hot.
I haven't bled the rads as I want him to hear/see it like it is, but I'm sure there's loads of air in the system. Tops of rads cool, noise etc
Our guy suspected a hole in the cylinder a while back but ditched that idea because of the pressure being stable. He had to take the hot water tank out of the airing cupboard to do pipework on the installation of the boiler. Is it possible he disturbed something then?
 
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Was just a thought. Dirty water would suggest cylinder sediment disturbance
 
The dirty water is now improving. It has only occured once, the other day, when, what we think was a large airlock, caused all the pipes and system to shake, rattle & roll. Sounded like someone was moving a large bag of tools around in the loft, followed by a bang. It was quite a dramatic moment. So much so, I panicked and switched everything off!
 
Any news Amelia? I agree with Bjorn it would be good to know how this develops/developed.
 
Hi guys!
Our heating engineer has spoken to Sentinel and Ideal yet again, for inspiration. We've now been advised to keep bleeding rads and topping up for 2 months or so and see whether things eventually improve. They think we've just got stubborn pockets of air. I'm not so sure........... With 2 air vents why doesn't the air shift and the pressure drop??
We remain mystified.
 
right if stubborn air lock remove a rad at a high point in the system pressure the system to 2.5 put a tail on valve with a hose (makes less mess :LOL: ) if that dont shift it i give up
but do keep in touch you have us all trying to figure this one :D
 

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