Hi Guys,
Hope you can help.
Potterton Profile 80e.
Just returned from holiday and the boiler keeps tripping the overheat cutout. Turned the heating off for the first time in 2-3 years so it doesn’t get cold under normal usage. It runs for about 1 minute then the overheat trip operates. After cooling for 10 minutes, resetting it and trying again, the same will happen.
The outlet pipe of the boiler gets hot although not instantly as you might expect from heated and pumped water. It seems that water is not actually pumping around the system. It’s as though the pipe is only getting hot through conduction and the fact the pipe is higher than the boiler. The pump which is in the upstairs airing cupboard gets hot as do the pipes surrounding it but no heat reaches the rads or the indirect water cylinder.
The system has run for years without inhibitor! so I assumed the pump was faulty. The replacement has made no difference so I looked at the three way valve. The control part was removed to operate it manually and the valve moves freely but neither position makes hot water flow to the cylinder.
Searches on here suggest that air locks and cold feed blockage can cause this. When the pump was replaced the system was completely drained (rather than rely on the pump valves working) and after refilling the rads were bled as was the screw in the middle of the new pump.
The problem seems to be directly related to actually switching off the system and letting it cool down for first time in years. When the boiler had been operating properly it would frequently kettle and make clicks and expanding / contracting noise which I understand to be typical of a scaled up boiler. Is it likely that allowing it to cool down has resulted in the silt collecting in and completely blocking the boiler or is the problem more likely to be in the cold feed / elsewhere.
Help – cold!!
Hope you can help.
Potterton Profile 80e.
Just returned from holiday and the boiler keeps tripping the overheat cutout. Turned the heating off for the first time in 2-3 years so it doesn’t get cold under normal usage. It runs for about 1 minute then the overheat trip operates. After cooling for 10 minutes, resetting it and trying again, the same will happen.
The outlet pipe of the boiler gets hot although not instantly as you might expect from heated and pumped water. It seems that water is not actually pumping around the system. It’s as though the pipe is only getting hot through conduction and the fact the pipe is higher than the boiler. The pump which is in the upstairs airing cupboard gets hot as do the pipes surrounding it but no heat reaches the rads or the indirect water cylinder.
The system has run for years without inhibitor! so I assumed the pump was faulty. The replacement has made no difference so I looked at the three way valve. The control part was removed to operate it manually and the valve moves freely but neither position makes hot water flow to the cylinder.
Searches on here suggest that air locks and cold feed blockage can cause this. When the pump was replaced the system was completely drained (rather than rely on the pump valves working) and after refilling the rads were bled as was the screw in the middle of the new pump.
The problem seems to be directly related to actually switching off the system and letting it cool down for first time in years. When the boiler had been operating properly it would frequently kettle and make clicks and expanding / contracting noise which I understand to be typical of a scaled up boiler. Is it likely that allowing it to cool down has resulted in the silt collecting in and completely blocking the boiler or is the problem more likely to be in the cold feed / elsewhere.
Help – cold!!
