Overboarding a ceiling

[MadAlicesDad]

I've got a Victorian house, with a lath and plaster ceiling that needs sorting. I don't want to take it off as the loft above is boarded and insulated, plus I know how messy that is.
I was going to overboard with 12.5mm board, but wondered if I would be better off fixing 50x25mm battens at right angles to the joists at the correct spacings, and fixing boards to that?
Any thoughts?
Mike

 

[roughcaster]

That would work a treat, providing the old ceiling you're boarding over is strong and not going to fall down. The 25x50 timber battens correctly spaced will be perfect, but you will need to fit bits of timber between each batten at either end of the ceiling to give you somewhere to screw to,, and stagger each row of boards. Apart from that and lowering the light bulb holder, no probs.

 

[MadAlicesDad]

When you say "providing the old ceiling you're boarding over is strong and not going to fall down", do you mean the lath and plaster bit or the whole structure?
My main concern is the strength of the the L&P bit and the ability of plasterboard with drywall screws to hold it up. I thought that by battening it, the L&P would be supported by the wood and the drywall screws would bear the weight of the new plasterboard and plaster only.
I have a slight concern with the ceiling rafters as they are on the thin side and in other rooms I've built a false ceiling on new rafters suspended from the walls. However this is my daughter's bedroom and she has a loft bed, and I cannot afford to drop the ceiling by 150mm.

Mike

 

[HERTS P&D]

You will need to fix to the ceiling rafters, not the laths.

Andy

 

[MadAlicesDad]

No worries there. As I said, I don't think the L&P can support itself much longer which is why I was thinking of battening it first, otherwise the weight of the L&P would be borne by the drywall screws holding up the plasterboard.

 

[Micilin]

Why not just locate your existing joists and fix your boards into them using drywall screws ( for timber) that are long enough. You may have to sacrifice some board to catch the joists properly, but this will be quicker and cheaper than battening out.

However if the existing is all over the place, you can batten out and pack out to line up, rather than bonding it out before you skim.

 

[MadAlicesDad]

If I overboard directly against the L&P (screwing to the joists) the plasterboard (or rather the screws holding it up) would then also be supporting the pressure exerted by the bumps and bulges in the L&P on the PB and the weight of the L&P if it became detached from the ceiling.
Also, it's a Victorian house and so far I've yet to find a set of rafters/joists at equal spacing, let alone spacing suitable for standard plasterboard sizes. £20 of battens will allow me to use standard board sizes without needing to try and find the joists and cutting boards to suit.
Also (as it's my house) the knowledge that the L&P is held back by more than a few drywall screws far outweighs any potential time saving, especially if the PB on its own were to prove to be not strong enough to hold the L&P back!
Mike

 

[Micilin]

If I overboard directly against the L&P (screwing to the joists) the plasterboard (or rather the screws holding it up) would then also be supporting the pressure exerted by the bumps and bulges in the L&P on the PB and the weight of the L&P if it became detached from the ceiling.
Also, it's a Victorian house and so far I've yet to find a set of rafters/joists at equal spacing, let alone spacing suitable for standard plasterboard sizes. £20 of battens will allow me to use standard board sizes without needing to try and find the joists and cutting boards to suit.
Also (as it's my house) the knowledge that the L&P is held back by more than a few drywall screws far outweighs any potential time saving, especially if the PB on its own were to prove to be not strong enough to hold the L&P back!
Mike

Indeed - if the ceiling is not as flat or sound as it should be for overboarding, then battens are best - and as you say,you can set up for the boards for minimum waste and ease of fixing.

(However, the L&P would not become detached from the ceiling if just overboarded properly with the correct screws)