Overlap required for rsj`s.

[aranger]

Around three years ago I decided to do some improvements in my bathroom which involved removing an old concrete and brick cupboard which was in my kitchen but protruded into my bathroom.

It had concrete floor and a concrete shelf which I guess was for the storage of coal a lot of years ago.

The opening was in the kitchen and the load bearing walls in the bathroom like an L shape.

After propping up the walls and removing walls and brick round opening I bricked up old door opening so beam had something to sit on at kitchen side.

I will have one large beam running width of bathroom from kitchen wall to bedroom wall and another smaller beam sitting on top of this beam and sitting in cavity wall to replace the L shaped walls.

I have three padstones 300mm long and 100mm wide cut into these walls for beams to sit on.

Initial plan was to get job done by a builder but I got laid off and job has been delayed so long building warrants have ran out and I cant seem to locate the engineer and now only have the cash to do it myself.

Everything is going great and am ready to order and fit beams but on the plans I had done it gives length of beams but I think the guy may have made an error as he only allows for 10mm each side for beams to sit on padstones.

Is this enough to support beams or should I make them the full width of the padstones 100mm or would this cause problems.

It also states that ends are to be packed with slate and hard pack cement to help spread load, is this on padstone under beam or around the beam.

Sorry if this is to much info. but this seems like a bit I should get exactly right before kids go for a bath under this. lol.

This may also seem silly but beams are to be galvanised and encased in fireproof gyproc, do I just wedge bits of wood inside beams to secure gyroc or is there a better method.

So close to saving myself a fortune here it would be a travesty to have to rip it all out again.

 

[noseall]

Everything is going great and am ready to order and fit beams but on the plans I had done it gives length of beams but I think the guy may have made an error as he only allows for 10mm each side for beams to sit on padstones.

Either there has been a mistake or it may read 10cm? 100mm is considered a minimum end bearing.

It also states that ends are to be packed with slate and hard pack cement to help spread load, is this on padstone under beam or around the beam.

Probably referring to spreader plate directly under the beam and on top of the padstone.

This may also seem silly but beams are to be galvanised and encased in fireproof gyproc, do I just wedge bits of wood inside beams to secure gyroc or is there a better method.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1223958#1223958

 

[Richard C]

I thought BR's required end bearings minimum 15cm each side on lintels & beams

 

[noseall]

I thought BR's required end bearings minimum 15cm each side on lintels & beams

150mm minimum end bearings applies to most (catnic style) lintels.

However steel beams are calculated from 100mm and upwards. The most recent ones i installed (last week) had 300mm end bearings with 340mm x cavity wall width x 3 course deep, pads.

 

[aranger]

Thanks noseall it might seem like a daft question but was worried in case 100mm was too long for some mad reason or other.

Hope your wrong Richard as its sitting on single skin walls that are only 100mm. Suppose I could build a pillar in the bedroom and kitchen but it would mean ripping out and cutting bedroom, kitchen fittings and tiles etc.

The jobs going fine but its adding a few grey hairs worrying about the neighbours bathroom upstairs joining mine.


Sorry to be a pain it also mentions lindaptor clips to connect beams, I take it I fit these either side of top beam to stop it sliding along bottom one.

Thanks again not much cause to use the site but the speed of answers is teriffic thanks for taking the time.

 

[Static]

End bearing is a design consideration like Noseall says.. with about a minimum of 100mm on most domestic properties.. only really applies to beams that are on piers and walls in line with the beam.. and would only go over 150 bearing when the beam required goes over 200mm deep..

 

[cyclonebri1]

someone got there mms and cms mixed up when the plans were drawn. Go 150mm along the wall and 100 accross the single skin.

The slate packin goes below the RSJ to ensure there is no gap between the the rsj and the timbers above it. Just lift the rsj at each end and allow it to touch all upper floor timbers if possible. Don't over jack it like the prat that did my daughter's did. None of the upstairs doors would shut when he's done

 

[aranger]

Cheers for that guys, the longer beam has been fitted and I have had a few swings and pull ups on it for when I take props out and it feels secure enough.

I know there will be more than 12 stone pushing down on it but its all I can think of to at least test it.

Just to pack the ends and leave it for a while before sitting the other smaller beam on it and into the outer cavity wall.

Thanks again if you read about a dafty being buried under a load of metal and rubble I will be that man.