overload on cooker point?

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I am having new cooker point(s) fitted by a niceic approved fitter, but I am abit doubtful about his willingness to do a proper job.

There is an existing 32A circuit. to which he is going to load (via split fused boxes) a 7.2kw induction hob (de dietrich DTI853x,states 32a fuse), a combi oven 3.4kw (AEG MCC3880E-m), a single oven (AEG B9879-5, no power indication but states 15-20amp fuse required) and a extractor fan.

I know its more complicated than adding all the total power ratings, but can anyone reassure me that if I turn all these appliances on full at the same time that the circuit is not going to be overloaded.

I would not question it but he has been pretty shabby with the rest of the work he has done. :confused:
 
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yeah sounds like a cowboy..

th hob should be on the 32A, with the ovens on their own 32A circuit..
 
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I am having new cooker point(s) fitted by a niceic approved fitter, but I am abit doubtful about his willingness to do a proper job.

There is an existing 32A circuit. to which he is going to load (via split fused boxes) a 7.2kw induction hob (de dietrich DTI853x,states 32a fuse),
No diversion allowed on induction hobs because of boost used with them so needs 31.3A
a combi oven 3.4kw (AEG MCC3880E-m),
You are allowed some diversity here although 15A with other items also thermostatically controlled need to allow around 10A
a single oven (AEG B9879-5, no power indication but states 15-20amp fuse required)
again as other oven some diversity allowed so allow around 10A when used with other items
and a extractor fan.
such a low current forget it other than for protection I would think it should have 5A fuse in fuse connection unit.
I know its more complicated than adding all the total power ratings, but can anyone reassure me that if I turn all these appliances on full at the same time that the circuit is not going to be overloaded.

I would not question it but he has been pretty shabby with the rest of the work he has done. :confused:
So add it all up around 52A will be required this would need 16mm² cable and at that size it would be very had to wire most of the appliances. Two methods either mini-consumer unit in kitchen which is what one would expect in a commercial kitchen and with all you list it must be considered in same way as commercial kitchen. However getting a 52A supply may not be easy because of sizes of MCB's and fuses available in consumer units and so one 32A and two 20A supplies with a fuse connection unit would be more likely the answer.
As to switching all on together 60A together with kettle, deep fat fryer, washing machine, tumble dryer and dish washer will be well over the supply into the house but it is rare for the main fuse to blow.
Safety wise as long as the cable has correct MCB/Fuse protecting it and the appliance also has correct size MCB/Fuse then there is not an issue. Only when the MCB/Fuse is changed for a bigger one is there a safety issue. However one does not want to be changing the fuse or resetting MCB all the time and the supply seems grossly under ratted.
So I think you are right to question what he is doing.

Many Electricians do not read all the bumph which comes with the appliances and not surprising when it states such basic things and as a result easy to miss the power requirements of induction hobs with boost as with old hobs the power the hob could put into a pan was quite limited and the power would cycle on and off so average power used was a lot lower than max rated power and I will guess that is the case with your Electrician.
 

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