Paint reacting on new doors

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24 Apr 2022
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Door2 13 Apr.jpg
Door2 13 Apr.jpg

BRAND new handmade tulip wood/ply kitchen cupboard doors reacting with THIRD coat of Rust Oleum kitchen cupboard paint. Joiner insists no contamination possible, Rustoleum don't have a clue. Have tried meths, lightly sanding & painting again. Am I going to have to strip down completely? How about some stain blocker? I'm exhausted & devastated. Elderly lady trying to do this on my own! PLEASE help!
 
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You could try a shellac based paint such as Zinsser BIN or Blockaide to seal the stains.

Use household ammonia to clean the brushes after.

A cheaper option would be oil based undercoat but drying times are much longer.
 
Is this all of the doors?

Where the stain is, is the paint softer, and liable to be scratched off?

Have the doors got wet before or after painting?

I suspect more coats of the same paint will not help at all, and assuming the paint surface is good and sound, an oil-based stain block is the way to go.
 
Thank you both for suggestions. I think an oil based stain blocker is best option but it only comes in white & doors are graphite dark grey! If I can find a black oil based undercoat as I will end up with 6 coats as least! I didn't stress that the first 2 coats were fine - it was the 3rd coat that caused the problem. Could it be something to do with the curing which apparently takes a week? Painted the 1st 2 coats in 48 hrs and then left the 3rd coat for much longer. No the marks don't rub off or flake. No they didn't get wet.
 
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Why not just use grey oil based undercoat. The product doesn't need to mention anything about stain blocking.

The Dulux Trade oil based grey undercoat is similar in colour to your doors. The cheaper, Leyland Trade stuff is a lighter grey, and available in 750ml tins.

The downside to the old based undercoat is that if you don't let it cure sufficiently you will get "fisheyes", craters where the paint is pushed away by the solvents that are being released.

Some independent paint retailers will add tint to the white shellac paints at an extra cost. You could paint over the shellac an hour later. I don't know how dark they can go though.

Alternatively, you could use knotting solution, which is shellac based and "clear".
 
Good idea! Rustoleum is sending me some Zinsser degreaser to try as they don't recommend another 2 coats of paint (=5!). They initially suggested Meths which did help a little. If this doesn't work I shall sand off as much as possible & start again with an oil based primer as you suggest.
 

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