Painting gloss or satin over gloss

[b21playa]

Hi all

Doing a property up for rental which currently has glossed woodwork. As I'm changing the doors, these will need to be glossed and now the skirting and door frames to match and freshen it up.

Can I get away with sanding off the sheen, and giving it a coat of key land trade High gloss? Or am I better going satinwood?

I would prefer to try and get away with 1 coat if possible due to time, and personal preference to looks is satinwood.

Thanks

 

[frosty149]

Morning,
I think you're going to be lucky if you get away with one coat over old gloss!

I would suggest the following:
1. Clean the old gloss.
2. A light but thorough sand (key for new paint)
3. Take a view - is one coat going to cover the colour contrasts you can see?
4. If not put on a coat of acrylic primer/undercoat it's over- paintable in an hour or so and will give you a uniform base for your preferred topcoat.

In my experience and broadly speaking, satin paints usually seem to have less body/coverage than gloss,
Cheap paints are often 'thin' on body.

The acrylic coat abovementioned will give you a better chance of success in one visit.
I have assumed you will be using oil based topcoat but the same approach for water based would be appropriate.

 

[b21playa]

Morning,
I think you're going to be lucky if you get away with one coat over old gloss!

I would suggest the following:
1. Clean the old gloss.
2. A light but thorough sand (key for new paint)
3. Take a view - is one coat going to cover the colour contrasts you can see?
4. If not put on a coat of acrylic primer/undercoat it's over- paintable in an hour or so and will give you a uniform base for your preferred topcoat.

In my experience and broadly speaking, satin paints usually seem to have less body/coverage than gloss,
Cheap paints are often 'thin' on body.

The acrylic coat abovementioned will give you a better chance of success in one visit.
I have assumed you will be using oil based topcoat but the same approach for water based would be appropriate.

This was the paint, I'm guessing its oil based http://www.screwfix.com/p/leyland-trade-satinwood-gloss-paint-brilliant-white-5ltr/50861

Alternatively I use leyland trade high gloss

What grade sandpaper should I use? Was going to sugar soap all woodwork

 

[frosty149]

100 or 120 grade sandpaper.
The paint (you linked to) is oil based and will be fine.
Any make of acrylic (water based) primer/undercoat will help obliterate the previous paint marks and discolouration - should it be needed.

Good luck with it!

 

[b21playa]

100 or 120 grade sandpaper.
The paint (you linked to) is oil based and will be fine.
Any make of acrylic (water based) primer/undercoat will help obliterate the previous paint marks and discolouration - should it be needed.

Good luck with it!

Thank you very much. I think I have some 120grit paper, so will go around all woodwork giving it a sand and a clean with sugar soap before painting.

If 1 coat doesn't cover it, I will run over it again with another, was just hoping 1 coat would be enough.

 

[dcdec]

Acrylic satinwood - two coats in one day easily, won't yellow, easy clean up, low odour.

OB gloss - slow drying, goes yellow, laborious cleaning, stinks

Dulux and sikkens both do good WB satinwoods, good prep and two coats required.

OB gloss is deader than disco.

 

[b21playa]

I forget how bad sanding dust is for me, even with a mask

Is liquid sandpaper/de glosser any good for this job? Or is there anything that is available that can't be painted straight over existing, be it a finish coat or primer?

I know I am cutting corners slightly but got a lot of woodwork and very little time

Thanks

 

[Chri5]

It's a light sand so you might be going overboard if you used a orbital sander and Hoover attachment (which with punched paper discs does get the majority of the dust).

It's a keying prep, so light rubs with 120 grade and wash dust off with a bucket of water and sugar soap.

In all honesty no one coat system will work, and going thick will lead to a very rough finish.

Use a quick dry water base paint. The time saved in not mucking around with oil base, drips and brush mess, cleaning oil base can be used to second coat in water base.

Water base is a quicker system all round. Paint dries quickly, recoat times are reduced and speedy laying on / painting are plus points.
Some trade oils take 5 hours to cure, and that can be a real pain due to dust, flies, fingers, hair, pets and knob heads.

 

[b21playa]

It's a light sand so you might be going overboard if you used a orbital sander and Hoover attachment (which with punched paper discs does get the majority of the dust).

It's a keying prep, so light rubs with 120 grade and wash dust off with a bucket of water and sugar soap.

In all honesty no one coat system will work, and going thick will lead to a very rough finish.

Use a quick dry water base paint. The time saved in not mucking around with oil base, drips and brush mess, cleaning oil base can be used to second coat in water base.

Water base is a quicker system all round. Paint dries quickly, recoat times are reduced and speedy laying on / painting are plus points.
Some trade oils take 5 hours to cure, and that can be a real pain due to dust, flies, fingers, hair, pets and knob heads.

Thanks

Maybe I was going overboard with sanding. I'll try the next room giving it a light sand, and then once all done go over it with the leyland satinwood I have

 

[b21playa]

Ended up sanding all woodwork, cleaning with sugar soap and giving it 1coat. Seems to have come good, a second won't be needed