Painting lining paper - Is this the right way

[aveatry]

So just to recap
part old walls that have been filled and sanded and part new plaster. I want to end up with satin white paint. I want a new scim type perfect finnish
Is my thinking of what ive read on here the right way.

Size the new plaster with thin paste
Use 1400 grade lining paper and butt the joins
Paint with trade dulux super matt (cause thats what ive got left over from another job)
Fill the butt joins- yes they were butted but you can still see the joins.
Sand
Prime new filler with 30% paint.
Paint walls with as many coats of my top coat (dulux satin sheene) that will hide the filler.

What is the best filler - is it topret internal
Will the joins lift on my first coat of paint

And what about this for an idea. why not use a white undercoat spray paint down the butt joins to seal prior to filling. As I understand that the wet filler may re wet the paste and re shrink the paper and crack the filler
Or what about using this http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-stain-sealer-400ml/40126

 

[aveatry]

Ok I ve now got some BIN and going to spray the joins - wiil no one tell me if im on the right track with this- Im ready to hang dulux 1400 lining papar

 

[dcdec]

The better thing to do would be use a non woven lining paper as these do not shrink or expand and you won't have to do any filling of the joints, providing you hang the paper straight and butted up correctly.
I'm not a fan of filling joints but if you do its important to prime the area to fill before filling, use watered down emulsion (same as a mist coat). Once sanded back prime the area again.
The problem with filling joints is the filler can flex so be careful not to roll to hard when you go over the filled areas, the other problem is the filler being smooth it creates a different texture to the lining paper which can show up quite strongly.
Toupret is a good manufacturer and your filled joints do stand a chance of lifting but thats the chance you take if you fill seams. If you don't feel confident of getting perfect seams you might find it better to slightly overlap and rub the joint down once dry.

 

[aveatry]

Wont the watered down paint just get in the join and re activate the paste - lifting the seems.
I have now hung the lining paper and "butt joined" it although it is inpossible to get the butt to butt all the way down the join as I do not want to overlap. The gaps that are there are less than 1mm, even the butt join there is somthing to fill as the papers edge is and gets slightly shampherd or rounded I intend to fill this hairline with filler after spraying the joins with BIN to seal the paper. Then lightly sand as needed.
Then paint ---- but do I paint with full strength soft sheene or water down the 1st coat. And if I am going to do that I have some supermatt I can use 1st, But I am concerend that the watered down paint will re- wet the paste