painting nightmare - please help

19 Jun 2005
Reaction score
United Kingdom
I have been meaning to paint my bathroom for months now and finally got round to it yesterday. I had previously sanded down the walls (they had a very rough finish and were painted white) and polyfilled some cracks and uneveness. In some places the paint came off the wall and revelealed bare plaster. I polyfilled this and went over with some dulux kitchen and bathroom emulsion paint in these areas (not over the whole wall).

When I painted (using dulux kitchen and bathroom paint in a dark maroon/ purple colour) yesterday the paint has gone on in a very non uniform way. Some bits are quite dark and some bits are a light pink colour. Where I filled some hairline cracks those bits are very dark. The paint also felt difficult to apply.

Could it be that where some parts of the wall were heavily sanded, the finish of the old paint was removed and so the paint is going on differently.

What should I do. Would a coat of white emulsion mixed with 20% water provide a uniform texture to paint onto?

Sponsored Links
Is there any chance that my paint might have "gone off". It was bought in May and was one of the dulux mix it in store colours? It has been in its tin since then and has not been opened.
Where the paint is different colours (darker/lighter) its because i suspect you have given it 1 or 2 coats. The best thing to do is spot in the filler marks with the emulsion that you have until it stops (could be up to 4 times).Its because the paint sounds like a very strong colour and the filler soaks up the pigment in the paint. then give the whole room 1 full coat. Hope it helps
And that stuff is horrible paint...its a marketing ploy and leads people into thinking its the only stuff you can use in kitchen and isnt.
Sponsored Links
Zampa. Any suggestions as to what is better paint to use. The bathroom does get quite steamy. What are your particular annoyances with the paint. It is clearly pretty rubbish at coverage.
How do you mean by coverage?...the fact if doesnt cover the wall below or the amount it actually covers?...

The fact that it hasnt covered is probably down to the color glendas said..strong bright pure colours dont cover as well as those that contain a little white.

You may find Johnstones trade acrylic eggshell better...its essentially the same stuff...'kitchen and bathroom paint' is Dulux's posh name for acrylic eggshell..

I personally find it 'gluey' to apply, it has a tendency to run or sag as well.

You can actually use ordinary vinyl emulsion of the rom is resonably ventilated...think about it...what did people use before kitch an bathroom paint?

As you probalby have some more of the paint it will be a shame to waste it...why not coat the wall with ordinary emulsion in the same colour and then hit it wit the kitchen and bathroom stuff.
Thanks Zampa. It is a strong bright colour and consequently it looks like it is going to take a lot of coats to get it to the final colour. This is what I mean by coverage.

Having done some tests my problem seems to have been different absorbancies all over the wall due to my sanding and polyfilling. I have given the walls a coat of polycell basecoat today so fingers crossed that will help.

I am going to give a second coat of basecoat tomorrow and then apply the colour.

Luckily I only initially painted a small wall with the colour so I have lots of paint left.

The paint does seem quite gluey. Not all the dissimilar to applying gloss. I have only ever painted with kitchen and bathroom paint. This is my first emulsioning experience. It hasn't been a good onme unfortunately. However, sounds like from your comments the rest of the paintining I need to do which will be with matt emulsion should be easier.

The hardest part I find is the cutting in. I am painting the colour up into the ceiling that is painted white. Any tips/ advise?

By the way your comment about what did they use before kitchen and bathroom paint? Exactly what my mum said. Proof that mothers do indeed know best. Cheers.
You can thin the paint that you use to cut along the ceiling line out a should go on a bit easier, you wont have to make so many 'passe's. with the brush..also, once you have dipped the brush in the paint, trying working it out on the wall a little below the cutting in line, most people overcut onto other surfaces because they have too much paint on the brush.

If your right handed work fom the right not the left...this will avoid you having your hand cutting in in blind spots when its in font of you...turn the step round so they are at 90 degrees to the your facing it as opposed to standing sideways...its easier to cut in when your well balanced.

Thanks again Zampa.

Should I be cutting in the whole wall (lengths along ceiling, corners where wall meets another wall and skirting board) and then using the roller to fill in. My concern is that by the time I have done this the paint kind of dries and when I roller over it leaves a mark or edge of some sort.

I read on another post that you had had trouble with this kitchen and bathroom paint as it sets and then rolling over it is a problem. I think I was also having this problem. Could it be the walls are too cold (all external walls) to paint. Would a small fan heater in the room fix this? As you mentioned to me before it is best to turn the radiator off as it is too intense a heat on the area of wall above it. Is there some sort of optimum temperature.

It will be better if you do cut in the whole area first...if you cut in a bit at a time then youl end up with patches on your walls where they are drying out.

Using a fan heater will cause you more problems because the wet edges of the paint will dry out too soon...and you will have to go like the clappers in order to aviod this.

I always prefer the room helps keep the paint going for longer, thus avoid edges drying.

The only way to aviod the paint lifting when you roll back over it is to cut in first...let it dry then roll......this is going against the laws of good painting practice but its probably the only way around this problem.

Dulux diamond matt (retail version..real life) is the worse offender.......its truely awful and best left on the shelf.
I have applied two coats of Polycell Basecoat to the walls now and am trying to pluck up the courage to put the colour on. Just can't face it if it goes wrong again.

Now the Polycell Basecoat is on do you think I need to apply a thinned out first coat of emulsion, if so in what proportion. The thinking is that this would seal the wall.
Im not familiar with the polycell basecoat stuff..can you expplain a bit more about it for me ...ta.
Well that looks like good stuff to me...its problably based on similar primers the 'trade' well worth giving it a go.

I think the sealing issue youhave with the emulsion would have already been taken care of with the base coat...difficult to say whether the paint you have need thinning...depends on the paint really, if its a retail paint id say no...just give it a good tir, which normally thins it anyway.

If its a trade paint like dulux I would thin it by about 15% as dulux is a bit chalky and dry to on the other hand has started to feel 'gluey' for some I would be tempted to thin that about 10% too.

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

Sponsored Links