Painting over Dulux Endurance

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I am decorating my hallway and I thought I would test the colour I want by painting one wall (and an area on another)... it's dulux endurance timeless so just off white, I thought if I don't like it it won't take much to cover over... well the coverage was awful and it has a slight sheen to it, although it is Matt.

Today I have attempted to paint over the area with my trusty leyland white Matt emulsion and start again, however it doesn't seem to stick on the endurance paint, and has an awful transition to the original mist coated area.

I assume it's due to the endurance paint repelling it.

Any idea whether more coats will eventually work or do I need to sand back to plaster?
 
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The awful transition I am referring to is in the picture attached. Left side is endurance paint over painted with Matt emulsion, right side is just Matt emulsion

IMG_1321.JPG
IMG_1324.JPG
 
Sand back, not right to plaster, fill with fine surface - maybe easifill if it's a large area then coat with zinsser gardz
 
Cheers Nige, should I just sand the high spots back or the area with endurance too?

I'm assuming I only need the filler if I need to level it out?

I have some zinseer BIN would that work? And what area am i applying this to... just the endurance area or the whole wall?
 
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I have just read this thread on Dulux Endurance and I am staggered to read of these problems and to see the photos!
. . . . . . . . . . Especially as I have just bought it - and Endurance or Diamond Matt were recommended to me, specifically as a durable matt paint for a high traffic hallway area.

>> It's not cheap either, I bought 5L of tint matt Endurance and I am ready to put it on!
.
But then I read this >>>.

Q >> You don't explain why you are moving away from Endurance, other than maybe it is more of a sheen than a matt?? So have I chosen a problem paint?

I now read in other threads that it is difficult to apply and that it isn't really matt! Going by the photos the problems StEng24 has had that look much more than a bit of orange peel !! I would be so disapointed with that finish. But both photos show the same problem. Or is that something I can avoid?

In preparation for the Endurance I covered the old problem vinyl silk with Zinsser Gardz. But now it's decision time - do I use the Endurance or not?
>> It does sound like a difficult paint to use?
Your views please, I am prepared to ditch it and get a better trade paint, but which paint?

If I continue with the Endurance do you have any tips - other than don't use it? It sounds like Endurance has to be heavily thinned?! Endurance doesseem very thick, not like an emulsion, more like a satin gloss feel to it?

Some posts say that Endurance is just another version of vinyl paint?
Your views please? All advice gratefully received.
Thanks

Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/painting-over-dulux-endurance.469809/#ixzz4Q15mGZNZ
 
I haven't used Endurance but I have used Diamond matt quite a few times.

AFAIK, endurance is retail version, diamond matt the trade version.

In my experience, when applying over standard emulsion you have to be careful not to over roll, otherwise, yes you will end up with orange peel. The paint "soaks" in a lot on walls with higher suction (ie existing matt emulsion). Subsequent coats however flow nicely.

The finish is less matt than standard Dulux matt but it is no where near as shiny as vinyl silk.

I can't see any problem with thinning the first coat if it helps (alternatively add some floetrol).

For what it is worth, I am currently using Farrow and Ball's version (Modern Emulsion), which is really crap. A week after having painted the skirting, the F&B is fisheyeing when I cut in. I have to leave the lid off the tin over night to try to make the paint thicker.
 
I have no issues real issues with Endurance in itself, I just tried to use it on a wall that was too bad patchy to start with.

The issue I have here is the transition between an area of endurance and standard Matt emulsion.... I've tried sanding level and re-painting but it's still awful.

Might use a roller with a thicker nap to build up the paint, and hope it starts sticking to the endurance
 
Sorry for my delayed response and thanks both for replying.

StEng24, you said .....
I have no issues real issues with Endurance in itself ............
The issue I have here is the transition between an area of endurance and standard Matt emulsion.... I've tried sanding level and re-painting but it's still awful.
!!!

My original question in this thread was prompted by StEng24, your poor experience with Endurance on a less than perfect surface, it sounds quite an 'unforgiving' paint.

I am doing the hall, stairs, landing - a high traffic area, hence choosing a more durable matt paint.

When I started this job I had big problems trying to sand/fill/dress on the existing lumpy vinyl silk. It has a rubbery feel and sandpaper doesn't 'cut' through it very well or produce a dust. That's why I steamed it all off and started from plaster again with a base of ordinary matt to build on going forward.

I then bought the Endurance, but I'm not sure about it now having read a number of comments here and elsewhere!?
That's why I would rather ask all these questions before repeating my bad experience of vinyl if I now use Endurance. It sounds like it is similar to vinyl in it's behavior - but more of a matt!

Question? >> Response from anybody please >>> -
Q1 - So what are the advantages of Endurance if there are so many niggly issues with it? Likewise for it's trade equivalent Diamond?

Q2 - Why would I use it in preference to ordinary matt?

Q3 - Would I be better off using a normal good quality matt paint.
It might need freshening up with another coat after a few years - but it I ?

Q4 - If I use a problem paint that supposedly offers a few advantages (Endurance), it sounds like it could be a problem in the future if I try to paint over it with something else?​


Opps you said .....
A week after having painted the skirting, the F&B is fisheyeing when I cut in.
>> What is Fisheyeing?

Thanks everyone for your feedback.
 
Last edited:
Hi All.
Any chance of a response please on your earlier feedback and my queries? Thanks.

opps and StEng24 please ? ........

From last week I posted .................

StEng24, you said .....
I have no issues real issues with Endurance in itself ............
The issue I have here is the transition between an area of endurance and standard Matt emulsion.... I've tried sanding level and re-painting but it's still awful.
!!!


My original question in this thread was prompted by StEng24, your poor experience with Endurance on a less than perfect surface, it sounds quite an 'unforgiving' paint.

I am doing the hall, stairs, landing - a high traffic area, hence choosing a more durable matt paint.

When I started this job I had big problems trying to sand/fill/dress on the existing lumpy vinyl silk. It has a rubbery feel and sandpaper doesn't 'cut' through it very well or produce a dust. That's why I steamed it all off and started from plaster again with a base of ordinary matt to build on going forward.

I then bought the Endurance, but I'm not sure about it now having read a number of comments here and elsewhere!?
That's why I would rather ask all these questions before repeating my bad experience of vinyl if I now use Endurance. It sounds like it is similar to vinyl in it's behavior - but more of a matt!

Question? >> Response from anybody please >>> -

Q1 - So what are the advantages of Endurance if there are so many niggly issues with it? Likewise for it's trade equivalent Diamond?​
Q2 - Why would I use it in preference to ordinary matt?
Q3 - Would I be better off using a normal good quality matt paint. It might need freshening up with another coat after a few years - but it I ?​
Q4 - If I use a problem paint that supposedly offers a few advantages (Endurance), it sounds like it could be a problem in the future if I try to paint over it with something else?​


Opps you said .....
A week after having painted the skirting, the F&B is fisheyeing when I cut in.
>> What is Fisheyeing?

Thanks everyone for your feedback.
 
fisheyes are "dots" where the paint has pulled back from the surface,

Imagine taking a cotton bud and removing pin hole or larger sizes of paint from the surface.

see the images in the fisheye section of the following page.

http://www.neopaints.com/product_troubleshooter/tr04-timber-substrates.htm

The emulsion looks fine initially but minutes later your straight cutting in line becomes broken and pitted with pronounced ridges.
 

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