Pantry shelving

[MisterBoy]

I have a converted outhouse that was used as a pantry, but had got damp and horrible. I've had it properly lined and insulated, etc but I want to fit it out myself.

I basically have available wall space 3 walls forming a C with each side about 5 feet and my idea is to put in fitted shelves all the way round.

I don't want to spend a fortune but for it to look tidy so I'm thinking of buying pine boards but I've not got another pantry to look at so I'm wondering about things like shelf depth and height, and how to support them.

Would it make sense to try and plan it all out, or build up shelf by shelf to see how it feels?

 

[MisterBoy]

Can anyone advise on what thickness of wood plank will support what length shelf between brackets?

I am trying to decide between buying planks of pine, or using some nicely faced ply. Which would be stiffer for the same thickness?

 

[KenGMac]

Have you considered free standing shelving units?

Faster, possibly cheaper??? to install.

Ken.

 

[MisterBoy]

Have you considered free standing shelving units?

Faster, possibly cheaper??? to install.

Ken.

Won't use the space efficiently unless I'm very lucky, and just won't look as nice.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I basically have available wall space 3 walls forming a C with each side about 5 feet and my idea is to put in fitted shelves all the way round.

Mine is C shaped around 3 x 6 x 3, with the shelves along either 3 foot side, floor to ceiling. Entrance is via the side opposite the 6 foot side, in the middle, from our utility room. I made the shelves from a load of reject kitchen worktop, which I got for free. For supports, I simply cut 4" wide lengths of worktop, screwed to the wall either side, which was enough for 3 foot wide shelves - for your 5 foot wide shelves, I would suggest a support halfway. The 6 foot back wall, in the middle serves as a perfect place to hang sweeping brushes, mops and the like.

[EDIT] I meant to add, I made the shelves at a variety of spacing between, to accommodate various heights of things put on them.

 

[JohnD]

For strength and ease, slotted steel systems are very good.

You need the top of each column to be well above the top shelf, with a long, large screw at the top to resist pull-out leverage. All the others only need to resist weight.

If the columns are properly fitted, all your shelves will be level.

If you really want to, you can paint them to match the walls (preferably before fitting). Dark colours hide the slots.

You can move the brackets and shelves easily, and get different sizes.

The top shelf should preferably be shallow and lightly loaded, to minimise pull-out forces.

 

[MisterBoy]

@JohnD I was wondering about that slotted system... Not the absolute best visually but very strong and practical, plus you can adjust it later.
I suppose I could even notch the shelves around the columns though probably unnecessary. Affordable and easy too.
Thanks for the fitting tips that makes sense but I mightn't have thought of it.

 

[JohnD]

If you notch them, they may not fit if you move them later. I suppose you could fit a batten to stop things falling down the back.

 

[Diver Fred]

10x1" PAR for the shelves. In an old house I'd treat with an Aqueous woodworm protector before installing.

As you say the walls have been lined and insulated you have to be carful on how you fix the supports to the walls.
Is the insulation separated by wooden battens? Do you know where those battens are? If so then the shelf brackets or rails must be fixed to or better still through the battens.
If you don't know about or where the battens are then you will have to go through the insulation and into the brickwork and securely install compression proof spacers that the screws pass through into the wall plugs.

 

[MisterBoy]

@JohnD if my rails are straight then they should... a test of my skill perhaps I doubt I'll bother unless it annoys me, this is for jars and so on.

@wgt52 thanks, though what is PAR please? Protecting the boards seems reasonable to me. One of the walls has a new interior stud, I have marked where the studs (3x2" I think) are precisely for this reason. The other two walls we have insulated plasterboard dot-dabbed-onto the brick so will have to drill right through with some longer fastenings.

 

[Diver Fred]

@JohnD
@wgt52 thanks, though what is PAR please? Protecting the boards seems reasonable to me. One of the walls has a new interior stud, I have marked where the studs (3x2" I think) are precisely for this reason. The other two walls we have insulated plasterboard dot-dabbed-onto the brick so will have to drill right through with some longer fastenings.

PAR = Planed All Round i.e. planed smooth on all four sides. Finishes slightly smaller than 10x1, about 9&3/4 x 7/8's inch.

search for Corefix plugs

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Can anyone advise on what thickness of wood plank will support what length shelf between brackets?

Google "Sagulator", key in the material and sizes, get answer

 

[MisterBoy]

@JobAndKnock I assume this: https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/
How cool.
Any idea what tree the typical pine boards you'd get in a UK builders' merchant would be? White pine?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yep, that's it. Pretty neat bit of software.

Yes the typical pine planking/shelving you get is good old white pine (whitewood)