patio lights from indoor switch

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Hi,

I'm looking to run some patio lights (probably a combo of about 6/7 mains walkover led lights and a few mains bollards). I'd like to control these from a switch inside the back door.

By my (admittedly amateur) estimates 1.5m 3core SWA should be fine.. can you terminate SWA in a standard internal back box? or should I take power from dedicated MCB to switch then switch to a metal box inside to terminate the SWA in (near consumer unit? seems ott for lighting circuit) then take enough SWA outside to reach the first light where I presumeably can use a resin T or underground Pratley T to connect the first light..

I would prefer to connect the SWA in the switch and then just go through the wall below the switch (did I read somewhere this should be a min of 600mm above damp course?) but running SWA into a standard internal box seems odd.

I did ask on here some time ago (buried in a multi question topic that I didn't want to resurrect :) ) about running TW&E to an IP65 junction box on the outside of the property then running the SWA from there but the advice was this wasn't ideal.

I've noticed that most of the light fittings don't use SWA, just rubber cable.. does this mean you don't need SWA for outdoor lighting circuits? :confused:

or should I scrap the mains lights idea and get an IP68 transformer and just run enough SWA to get to where I'm going to bury that?

any help/advice gratefully received.

Trev
 
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SWA is used for its own mechanical protection ability (if you see what i mean) unlike a standard flex a swa cable will withstand a dig from a shovel, a flex will be sliced.

To save me waffleing on, part p using correct cable, junction boxes etc, why not buy the whole lot from the likes of b & q and get it all 12v and plug it in, indoors, easier, less hassle
 
does anyone have any experience with the walkover LED lights, mains or low voltage? If so which would they recomend in the above situation?

thanks

Trev

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

breezer said:
SWA is used for its own mechanical protection ability (if you see what i mean) unlike a standard flex a swa cable will withstand a dig from a shovel, a flex will be sliced.
yes, understood. Am using SWA for a run to the garage as often recommended on here terminated in a metal box by CU, right size for load/run length etc. But the outdoor lighting seems less 'cut and dry' and I can't really find much info on it..

breezer said:
To save me waffleing on, part p using correct cable, junction boxes etc, why not buy the whole lot from the likes of b & q and get it all 12v and plug it in, indoors, easier, less hassle
Problem with that is that I can't switch it from a normal light switch.. could have fcu and unswitched socket I guess? but would like it to 'look nice' Have an electrician who is going to inspect the runs before plastering then do testing after etc. and it is already notified as part of extension work, but am trying to find out as much as I can from the web (and largely this forum) as I find it 'sticks' better..

My initial thought was power from mcb to switch(1.5T+E), feed from switch to external IP65? junction box (1.5T+E) then when I got round to the garden connect the whole lot up with SWA fed from junction box (as I'm looking at a mix of 12 and 240V fittings). The suggestion was to work out exactly what lights I wanted so I didn't need the Junction box but on reflection I realised I had know idea how to switch power to the SWA from an internal light switch without a junction box.. :confused:

decided my best bet was another plea to the helpful folks here :)
 
two things

most 12v led lighting requires the transformer to be indoors, tlc have some nice lights that are 24v but again the transformer (actualy its a power supply) can not be mounted outside

walkover lights look very nice, really good, untill you have to change a lamp.

ok so led lights in theory will last for ever, but i have been looking for some for myself, i have yet to see any on display that have 100% leds working.

It seems to me, that to get the price down they are using cheapo leds

or in the interim, you could do what i did

make your own
 
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thanks, that's a very good point had not even considered changing lamps.. do they tend to be sealed units? Do you know if the individual 240v led lamps are better? any details on your home made ones?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLW50GU.html
I am assuming with something like these you unscrew the top plate and just replace the bulb?

I was wondering about something like the below for an external transformer "can be buried in the ground "
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Transformer_Index/Waterproof_Transformers/index.html

might be better then going for just above ground energy saving bollards.. this would then tend towards 240v..



My main question then is: this still leaves me unsure about the connection details. Have tried to find them in instructions for the lights themselves, on the wiki and in old posts by searching.. Can you tell me in an ideal situation, how would one do the wiring from a standard light switch to power ground level 240v garden lighting? or is this just not done? (i.e. am I barking up the wrong tree :( )

thanks

Trev
 
if its a sealed unit how are you going to change the lamp?

you have the right idea about changing them, but it doesnt work like that. they get full of grime gunge and stick

from supply to switch to outside

the outside cable should be swa
 
thanks for that breezer, can I just check, would you try and terminate 3core 1.5mm SWA in the 35mm single gang back box of the indoor switch?

cheers

Trev
 
trevw said:
, would you try and terminate 3core 1.5mm SWA in the 35mm single gang back box of the indoor switch?

I wouldnt even try (you can if you like)
 
thanks breezer - I think I'll skip it then and just have a junction box :)
 
Here's a different solution that worked for me when trying to work out how to get some O/S lights switched without either using the lighting circuit, and being able to switch said lights on from both ends of the garden..

I ran a cable (Hi-tuf) on an RCD protected spur to a remote switched outside socket (available at B&Q for £20)..couldn't find a link on their site, but Here is the product..

You can then plug in any lights which have an exterior transformer, and control from the remote switch that you can mount anywhere..

The remote does seem to have the quoted range even from inside..
 
thanks for the idea ellal, hadn't thought of that - will look at the lights available and go from there..

cheers

Trev
 

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