Peugeot 206 rear brake discs?

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I ended up with a 2002 convertible with a few faults!

The exhaust has mostly been fixed with a repair middle section and I can drive it now!


Now the problems with the rear brakes!

The cylinders seem pretty seized up! Will it usually work if I can force them back in?

Also the caliper is meant to slide freely on the mounting bolts. They are virtually not moving at all. I sorted out a similar one a few years ago but cannot remember how I did it. Any tips?

Tony
 
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If you have discs on the back, Tony, the pistons must not be pushed in......rather they need to be turned using a wind back tool, which retracts the piston as well as turning them.
The caliper slider pins do stick if the rubber boots have perished, and it's best to take the caliper bracket off, and hold it in the vice as you turn the pins.
PS I thought the convertible had drums on the back?
John :)
 
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This is a 2.0 litre GTI model and quite nippy!

Its discs on the back with the handbrake operating on the back of the cylinders somehow. I have yet to work out exactly how that aspect is meant to work apart from knowing its not working properly!

The sliding pin boots are not perished but I seem to remember the one I did before had just jammed for no obvious reason.

I suspect this car may have been left standing unused for some while.

Tony
 
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Ok, I see.
When the handbrake is pulled, the lever on the back of the caliper pushes the piston out on a ratchet mechanism .......this is non reversible, hence the need to screw the pistons back in - usually clockwise but makes differ.
Regarding the stuck pins, pull the boot back and squirt some release fluid in there.....after a while try to turn the pins in either direction until they come free. Don't allow them to snap off!
John :)
 
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Thanks.

Can anyone explain to me in more detail how this wind back works?

Is the cylinder threaded?

How is the piston retracted when the handbrake is released?

How does the cylinder retract when the foot brake is released to give clearance to the pads?

Tony
 
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It's quite a complex mechanism, but if you can imagine a buttress thread (as found on a quick release woodwork vice for example), when the handbrake mechanism is operated, the piston internal thread skips over the buttress, effectively pushing the pads in contact with the disc. It's a form of ratcheting mechanism, in reality. The pad cannot therefore retract without being turned. There is enough clearance in the thread for the pad to back off a little to prevent binding.
When using the footbrake, the piston moves out a fraction under hydraulic pressure, dragging the square section hydraulic seal with it. As pressure is released, the seal drags the piston back in with it a fraction, releasing the braking effect.
John :)
 
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OK thanks, I kind of understand but would love to have an old one to take apart to see for myself. Is there any web based explanation with drawings?

It is quite possible that mine are NOT jammed now that I have that explanation. Or that they were jammed but driving the car has released them.

I have had a look at the opposite O/S and that one is all OK. I will now have another look at the suspected N/S one.

But regardless, the handbrake braking effect is very minimal. If everything is working correctly ( as the O/S seems to be ) then why could the handbrake be so ineffective?

Tony
 
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Apologies for the late reply.....been down to London for a day or two, and still shell shocked :p
The issues with these handbrake systems is that they are rarely taken apart for cleaning.....this needs to be done every 12 months to keep things sweet.
Basically the pads get stuck it their housings and need to be removed to get rid of the rust and road dirt.
If that's done, the handbrake levers on the calipers need to be right back for them to be efficient, and sometimes owners try to achieve this by adjusting the handbrake cable.
John :)
 
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London is lovely.

I spend last two days in midlands with a return via Norfolk. real pain driving there, roundabouts every 2 km and real slow traffic!

Was collecting a set of wheels for the 206cc. Two have good tyres and the other are real flat no tread. I would never have believed that anyone would ever risk driving on tyres with no tread at all!

Hopefully I will have another look at the n/s brakes which I thought were seized and see what is really wrong based on the advice above.

Thanks

Tony


See my new thread about the ABS !
 
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If that's done, the handbrake levers on the calipers need to be right back for them to be efficient, and sometimes owners try to achieve this by adjusting the handbrake cable.
John :)

Sorry if I sound a bit think but could you explain what you mean by that in simple language?

Now I have redone my ACS I have to concentrate on getting the 206 ready for its MOT.

Tony
 
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The lever on the caliper, that the handbrake cable connects to, must be in the fully off position, and against the stop before the cable can be correctly adjusted (if it needs to be)......in other words, you cant pull the lever any further back by hand.
John :)
 
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Thanks.

I would not be stupid enough to do that although I am sure many might do.

Have this feeling that mine will be really good when I have sorted out the faults.

My 406 handbrake is really bad and I wasted money with someone who I thought was honest.

Tony
 
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Doesn't your 406 have a combines disc / drum arrangement Tony?
That is, the foot brake works on the discs, and the handbrake on a drum within the disc?
(I'm getting confused about which Peugeot we are talking about!)
John :)
 
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Yes, that's right John on my 406.

That needs its MOT soon and I may have to pluck up courage and try to take off the disc/drum.

I thought paying the rasta would have been OK as he "seemed OK" but then I suppose they all do!

Tony
 
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