Pipe connection directly attached to boiler cylinder leaking

[McBudman]

Hi there,

Have just joined the forum and was hopping for a wee bit of advice please.

I have an old Glow-worm Space Saver Mark 2 heating system and just replaced the Sunvic Actuator and 3 port 22 mm valve which were both faulty and now replaced in the same order as when removed with new identical parts.

To fit the valve I had to remove the pipe which was connected just bellow the middle section of the boiler cylinder that connects to the B side of the 3 port valve (sorry but not sure what pipe connection its called) to enable refitting of the valve.

However, when the valve was fitted, I noticed a leak coming from the pipe that I previously removed to fit the valve but leaking from the part that is directly attached to the boiler cylinder. Have tried to tighten it but appears to be leaking at the seal.


My question is.., Can the fitting that is connected directly to the boiler cylinder be replaced or a new washer/seal fitted and if so what would I ask for at the DIY store ?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

McBudman

 

[twgas]

Can you post a pic, not sure which bit you're talking about, sounds like it might be the cylinder itself leaking.

 

[McBudman]

Thanks for your reply

The leak is coming from the washer that surrounds the nut going directly into the boiler. I have put an arrow showing where the leak is coming from at the cylinder.

Leak

• McBudman
• 24 Nov 2013
• 1

Leaking from the washer that is sitting directly on the cylinder itself

Boiler

• McBudman
• 24 Nov 2013
• 1

Not sure what type of boiler it is ?

 

[Agile]

You MIGHT be able to reduce the leak by tightening the cylinder nut. But it also could get worse.

It is only a slight leak and could probably be ignored but the ultimate solution is the replacement of the cylinder.

About £200 to buy about £440 to have replaced professionally.

Tony

 

[McBudman]

I tried tightening the cylinder nut but with no improvement.

Would replacing the cylinder and pipe fittings with a similar model be fairly easy to swap round or is it strictly a job for a professional.

The reason I ask is funding, I've never seen £400 since I got married

 

[jackthom]

It looks like the leak is from the seal between the coil and the cylinder wall.

You'll have to partially drain the tank (and the primary system) then remove the compression fittings and get the backnut off that holds the coil in place, making sure it cant fall back inside!!!

Then some flexible washers smeared in something like Fernox LSX may help you get a better seal.

Edit: alternatively if the leak is slow let it settle for a while to see if it seals itself.

 

[bazdaman]

A washer from an essex boss or a pump washer works a treat on the coil if money is tight will take you a couple of hours and some patience just remember to stick a screwy in the coil before you completely remove backnut.

 

[Dan Robinson]

Twangggggggggggggg

remember to stick a screwy in the coil before you completely remove backnut

 

[McBudman]

Tried to remove the back nut but it won't budge. Any suggestions ?

Have put some WD 40 around the nut to see if it can help free it up.

Was also looking at Plumber's Mait Quick leak repair putty if the nut can't be removed but not sure if it is any good. The instructions says in can repair pipes, radiators, tanks and cylinders. Has anyone used this stuff before ?

 

[Norcon]

It could be fractured at the weld.
In which case someone handy with a tig welder or oxy/acetylene could fix it.

If the fitting fails to remove under more pressure it could fracture it further!
Or could even fracture it, even if its not already fractutred!

Looking at the system I'd definitely be going for a re-weld if all else fails.

 

[Agile]

You originally said that you had tightened the nut.

Now you say that you have been unable to remove it ???

Usually if you remove it a few turns and then add ideally some silicone grease but otherwise some WD40 then retightening it will apply more torque.

But even that is not guaranteed to stop the leak. Although a few turns of twisted PTFE take on the outside of the cylinder might help.

Tony

 

[McBudman]

You originally said that you had tightened the nut.

Now you say that you have been unable to remove it ???


That's right Agile, I did both.., sorry if I'm not explaining this properly but trying to as best I can

I replaced the three port valve and when it was all connected, noticed that the seal was leaking at the back nut on the original fitting of the cylinder wall as jackthom advised. (Cheers)

I then disconnected the pipe leading to the cylinder and tried to tighten the back nut as advised by your good self but unfortunately did not stop the leak.

I am now trying to remove the back nut to hopefully replace the leaking seal but can't get the nut off.

Trying more WD40 tonight and a lot more patience, hehe.

P.S.
What's a screwy ? just in case I get the nut free

 

[HERTS P&D]

Fit a new cylinder!

Andy

 

[Agile]

I think he means a screwdriver!

The coils are sometimes under some tension and can jump back into the cyl and then be difficult to get back out!

The sealing washer is inside the cylinder!

I presume you have to actually push it back into the cyl a little to get a new washer on to it.

Am not convinced "backnut" is the right term. I would call it a retaining nut!

Tony

 

[bazdaman]

Yeh tony a screwdriver and u do have to push the coil into the cyl, I usually put a pump washer on outside aswell for good measure, rarely do them but saves customer a new cylinder! It needs patience and an extra pair of hands help especially when it's a primatic the innards weigh a ton