PIR LIGHT not working.

[colinfifi]

PIR light in garden stopped working. Replaced lamp - no joy - though it had blown.
Checked voltage at light fitting - no volts.
My set up is , switch inside allowing permanent light if required, a sensor on wall in one position and light fitting on another point of wall - bought house with this set up.
Checked volts at inside switch and here's where it gets interesting 230v on both sides of switch. Checked switch all ok with ohms check.
My thought is problem with sensor - thus causing voltage at switched side of inside switch at all times.
Any thoughts on this from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Are you getting voltage at the switch line side on on both open and closed positions (on/off)?
And what are you using to get this reading?

 

[colinfifi]

Yes getting volts both side of switch in either position - using multimeter.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes getting volts both side of switch in either position - using multimeter.

Can you test the conductor ends by removing the switch line from the switch (isolate prior to doing this)
Sounds like the switch contact has seized/jammed in to the closed position, so new switch there and outside light, I would be replacing the sensor.
If you could link the sensor out, and the light comes on/off via new switch, then it would suggest the sensor has packed up.

 

[colinfifi]

Yes getting volts both side of switch in either position - using multimeter.

Can you test the conductor ends by removing the switch line from the switch (isolate prior to doing this)
Sounds like the switch contact has seized/jammed in to the closed position, so new switch there and outside light, I would be replacing the sensor.
If you could link the sensor out, and the light comes on/off via new switch, then it would suggest the sensor has packed up.

No took off wire and ohms checks carried ot - switch ok.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Are you still getting voltage at both conductor ends with switch out of circuit?
A few pictures of switch, terminals and conductors could help.

 

[colinfifi]

Are you still getting voltage at both conductor ends with switch out of circuit?

yes

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

could upload some pictures?

 

[colinfifi]

could upload some pictures?

havent got camera here and what would it achieve

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It could help me see what type of configuration of cables you have, how they are terminated and if there is something that between us we are missing.

From here I am blind to what you have and it could be something quite obvious or something a little complexed, without this insight it's difficult to make an informed judgement.
I would not expect the switch line to be live at 240V when disconnected from supply.
And if the set up is as you have stated, there is nothing at the PIR or light, that should introduce that voltage back.

What procedures are taking to measure voltage and what are you referencing against?

 

[colinfifi]

It could help me see what type of configuration of cables you have, how they are terminated and if there is something that between us we are missing.

From here I am blind to what you have and it could be something quite obvious or something a little complexed, without this insight it's difficult to make an informed judgement.
I would not expect the switch line to be live at 240V when disconnected from supply.
And if the set up is as you have stated, there is nothing at the PIR or light, that should introduce that voltage back.

What procedures are taking to measure voltage and what are you referencing against?

There must be 240v at light or pir during normal use to switch it on when sensed.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

There must be 240v at light or pir during normal use to switch it on when sensed.

But there would not be 240V at the switch line when disconnected or open circuit.

This why it is important to know what conductors are at terminals, configuration of circuit and the procedures you made and reference conductors that got you a voltage value of 240V.
Could you offer me details of make/model of the multimeter and how you performed these tests?

 

[colinfifi]

There must be 240v at light or pir during normal use to switch it on when sensed.

But there would not be 240V at the switch line when disconnected or open circuit.

This why it is important to know what conductors are at terminals, configuration of circuit and the procedures you made and reference conductors that got you a voltage value of 240V.
Could you offer me details of make/model of the multimeter and how you performed these tests?

Can't get to circuit till tomorrow .
measured to earth using simple small multimeter obtained from argos.

 

[swampy2]

More than likely the pir is goosed, you could open pir(switch off supply) disconnect live & switched live from pir and temp join them together with suitable connector, power back on and operate switch to see if the light now works.

Is the new lamp known to work.

 

[colinfifi]

More than likely the pir is goosed, you could open pir(switch off supply) disconnect live & switched live from pir and temp join them together with suitable connector, power back on and operate switch to see if the light now works.

Is the new lamp known to work.

No new light unknown state but when i checked voltage at light fitting - 0v.