Plaster forced drying = hairline cracks?

[MJ1]

I’d value some informed comment - We had a room 24’ x 12’ fully re-plastered. The builder removed wall paper, next day replastered and then borrowed heaters from me plus their own 4x 3kw blow heaters and told me to leave them all on until he returned (48hrs) Some areas went pink quite quickly others took longer - they wanted to paint so focused heaters where they thought they were still needed. Then they painted. After 3 months we now have long hairline cracks across most walls. The builders view is that the cracks are due to house movement. The house was built over 80 years ago with an extension 35 years ago, I am not convinced! Some cracks start from corners of light switch or sockets, or radiator brackets and run at 45 degrees others criss cross along the two largest walls. - any thoughts?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Fully replastered or just skimmed over existing?
Whichever, forcing it like that was asking for trouble, plasterers usually tell you to leave it for a fortnight & then paint, first coat very dilute.
Of course if you skimmed over existing lime plaster then that could now be separating from the brickwork...

 

[MJ1]

It was plastered by the builder over whatever the existing type of plaster was, but the builder is saying that for all they know the house is moving and that force drying would not cause hairline cracks. Do you have any reference that backs up fast drying is bad?

Also should we expect the finish to be predominantly smooth? There is a general lack of attention/poor finish with trowel marks and ripples that I would not expect. The reason for having it plastered in the first place, and this was the basis of the go ahead we agreed with the builder, was for a crisp, flat uniform finish that could then just be repainted in years to come.

Any advice/experience greatly appreciated.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Think your second point shows your builders true colours- a good plaster finish will be flat and smooth (almost polished), you might get very long undulations (2-3m) but only by a mm or 2 and generally too big to see. Trowel marks are unacceptable except below the line of the skirting boards (assuming you removed them).
Scholarly research on forced drying-none that i know of. Google gives a variety of answers, ignore anything from north america (mostly taped and jointed plasterboard)

 

[bernardgreen]

In the good old days a newly plastered house was left for weeks to allow it to dry slowly and naturally before any heating was used.

 

[HERTS P&D]

I have just had some plastering done, the plasterer told me to turn the rads off and don't paint until 2 weeks.

It feels like glass, fantastic job.

Andy

 

[MJ1]

Andy, seems like sound advice from your plasterer.

 

[HERTS P&D]

That was 1 month ago, all painted now and no cracks.

Andy

 

[danechip]

I wonder if the leccy bill has arrived yet...

 

[conny]

Whenever I've had plastering done I have been told no heating for at least 48 hours and then low, slow build up over the next 48 hours. Don't paint for 2-3 weeks and then only, and only then, if it has all dried out completely. Most finishes have been very smooth with maybe the tiniest of the odd dimple or bump, usually in a corner where it is barely noticeable unless you look hard. Anyone who failed to come up to this standard were asked to repair said faults and never used again.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Whenever I've had plastering done I have been told no heating for at least 48 hours and then low, slow build up over the next 48 hours. Don't paint for 2-3 weeks and then only, and only then, if it has all dried out comp....... Anyone who failed to come up to this standard were asked to repair said faults and never used again.

Yeah that. One plasterer I used for several jobs over the years, last job he did as usual the finish was lovely but there was a right bulge starting at 18" going to the floor. Pulled him on it- ah me back & knees have gone, can't get down to it properly, most people never notice with their 2" skirtings. Not been back there.