Plaster or cement?

[colinvansmith]

I am fitting a new bathroom, taking the bath out and fitting shower instead. When I have removed the bath and old tiles from the wall a lot of plaster has came away to reveal brick work in some places and in others it's not as deep and has revealed old plaster or cement on top of the brick. In most places it's over an inch deep from the surface plaster.

What should I do to make it all even, should I use cement or plaster keeping in mind it will be a minimum of an inch thick and it will be PVC wall panels I'll be using to finish it.

If the best option is cement what ratio of cement, sand and water do I use.

Any help appreciated its all driving me bonkers

Cheers,

Col

 

[dann09]

Use S&C and apply it in two coats of 1/2" each.

Knock off any loose material.

Search on this forum for the mix ratio's - its been covered umpteen times.

 

[colinvansmith]

Hi sorry to sound like a dummy but what s and c, sand and cement?

 

[colinvansmith]

Also because some of the existing cement is kinda powdery. Should I apply a PGA glue/ water solution before any cement first similar to when plastering

 

[Builder2011]

Hello.

This reply may or may not be helpful. Hope some or all is.

Look at the pvc panels you will be fitting and find out on what base those are fitted to the walls. Are they fitted to battens or wall clips perhaps?

Then consider the current condition of the existing wall finish. If most is still in place after loose parts are broken away, then fill in the small gaps with whatever is easiest for you. If you decide on plaster get a base plaster, it will be covered over anyway. If most is loose then remove all of the covering and you may have no need for a plaster coat or render (but may need battens and insulation (esp if external wall)).

BUT, if you are fitting battens or clips on the wall for the panels, your decision is probably determined by how you will fix those soundly into the wall. Cement is quite hard to drill into, and for plaster it takes weeks to dry and then you'll need suitable wall plugs.

Re pva, look on the pack of cement or plaster. There will be information there about whether it requires a pva background.

Hope some of this is helpful.

 

[colinvansmith]

Would it be easier to fit batons straight onto the brick then fix the panels to the batons thus completely missing out the plastering/ rendering part possible

 

[dann09]

With respect Builder 2011,



1. The state and composition of the wall(s) surface materials is described above.

2. S&C has already been applied indicating a damp situation or location.
No "base plaster" is required.

3. "Cement" (whatever that means) in a render is not "quite hard to drill into"

4. Plaster does not "take weeks to dry" out.

5. What do you mean by "suitable wall plugs"?

6. You do not determine the state of a wall by looking at package information. You look at the wall(s).

cvsmith, Do not use PVA, apply a thin scratch coat, or a slurry, of S&C prior to floating a first coat.

 

[Builder2011]

Dear dann09,

I'm sure all is very sensible. My post was possibly helpful.

Some panels are fixed on battens. If the pvc panels are batten types, then there maybe no requirement to make good the existing wall cover which saves a job and cost. Also, removing the existing render and adding battens keeps the same room size, whilst repairing the existing wall cover and then adding battens on top reduces the overall room size a little.

Thank you for reading.

 

[darrington]

I think DannO9 is nit picking here. Nothing wrong with Builder2011's post. Old render can be hard to drill into without the proper drill/bits. Plaster can take weeks to dry depending on thickness, substrate and location/temperature, "suitable wall plugs" means just that, "suitable wall plugs". He NEVER said to use pva either, he said, check the info on the bag to see if it needs pva.
Stop nit picking, who do you think you are.

 

[Skimmers]

take back all the dodgy plaster/render then fill it all back out with s/c with sbr and then use a bathroom tanking kit from mapie sorted

 

[dann09]

Builder2011, still with respect:

You say "no requirement to make good the existing wall cover" then why have you spent a paragraph writing about making good the existing wall cover?

I raised six points above & you have not answered a single one.

I would suggest that you apply a considered judgement before "advising" someone about a trade that you, on the evidence of your posts, do not know anything about.

DIY'ers advising DIY'ers is great and most useful but that is not the case above.

 

[dann09]

darrington,

I know precisely who i am, a general contractor with years of experience, (and qualifications) in plastering, among other trades.

I also argue against technicalities, eg. bad advice, not the man.

I dont find "old render" hard to drill into.

Where do you pull the "proper drill and bits" business from? Where were they previously mentioned?

We constantly spread & render and only on rare occasions do we find that the mix doesn't go off. We use the appropriate mix for the appropriate background. I have never waited weeks for the material to set.

Your comment on PVA is as ludicrous as Builder2011's, how can you determine the background by reading the bag info?

I never said that he advised PVA. I advised the OP not to use it.

"suitable wall plugs" - suitable for what, plaster thats taken "weeks to dry"?

 

[Builder2011]

Dear dann09,

Thank you very much for your reply.

The original post requests any help.

Good luck with your contributions to this post and to your work.

Thank you again for your reply.

 

[dann09]

Builder201,

And good luck to the OP's if the above is your version of helping a fellow DIY'er.

 

[Skimmers]

take back all the dodgy plaster/render then fill it all back out with s/c with sbr and then use a bathroom tanking kit from mapie sorted

or just ignore me!!!!!